Papaya Farming – Ultimate Guide

Do you want to start a Papaya farming business? Here we have listed a comprehensive business strategy roadmap for beginners with profit margin, expense, and papaya farming techniques. However, before we tell you anything about Papaya farming, let’s first get familiar with this plant and the cultivation techniques that you should use to get the maximum output.

About Papaya

Papaya (Carica papaya) could be an early-living and dying fruit tree. These fast-growing trees can bear fruit in the first year of planting, if possible. However, a multi-hour sub-freezing temperature will destroy an exposed plant. Papaya plants are so cold sensitive that they should be grown in warm areas. Throughout the year, warm areas will have papaya flowers and fruit on the plant.

How long does Papaya farm take to grow?

It may take eight to 10 months before the fruit is ready to be harvested after planting a small plant in the field. In the number of months that Papaya will develop and bear mature fruit, the environment has a role to play. In hot areas, harvesting from seed can take six to nine months, but zones that are more temperate need 9 to 11 months to be able to grow fruit from seed. When planted later in the year, the colder autumn and winter weather slows down growth and increases the time required by the plant to produce fruits for harvest.

Also Read: How to Nurture the Dragon Fruit –An Exotic Tropical Fruit

Papaya cultivation and harvesting

When the tree has bloomed, wait for five to eight months for the fruit to be harvested. This time depends on the temperature and the state of the fruit. Papaya trees bloom during the year. After the first year, the fruit and flowers on the tree should be supplied continuously.

The form of flowers on a tree decides whether, after many months, you can see fruit. If the tree has male flowers only, it won’t be fruitful. Trees that have only female flowers, or both, can bear fruit if adequately pollinated. Vigorous flora hangs from long stalks, while female vegetation has short stalks and a bulge at the ovary’s base.

Edible flowers like female flowers are available on short stalks and have the stems that are typical of male flowers.

How to know if your papaya plant has fully grown-up

As there are often fruits in various stages of tree development, it will help to recognize the ripe ones when to pick them. The fruit’s color is the primary measure of maturity. Choose fruits of one to three-fourths of the yellow rind.

The green fruit is not ripe and after harvest does not sweeten. Depending on your growing conditions, 30 to 150 fruit can be obtained each year from your papaya tree.

Papaya farming blueprint for business

You must conduct an economic analysis to validate the use of various production inputs and the revenues received. Fixed costs are primarily in initial land growth in papaya farming. Fixed prices may include fixed labor salaries and repair of farm machinery and other miscellaneous expenses.

The cost varies between manufacturing methods and input costs, including fertilizers and pesticides. It also includes payments for irrigation, intercultural, mining, transportation, and other management activities. Calculate the gross production expense. Calculate and record the anticipated profitability and ROI in your business plan.

The more uses, the better business prospect
  • Papaya is used in many ways. And, its several uses opens the opportunity to explore the business scope from the same. So, let’s know more about it.
  • Sometimes Papaya is taken in the breakfast or dessert fruit.
  • Papaya is also loved as a diet fruit.
  • The culled Papaya can be fed to the pigs and or other cattle.
  • Papaya is used as an ingredient in a variety of fruits across the world whereas unripe fruits and leaves are also used as a vegetable.
  • Papain, which is milky latex obtained from the Papaya after a process of the incision. And, then latex is dried and sold in the powder form.
  • The latex powder is then used in digestion aids, tooth-cleaning powders, and so on.

Papaya farming and health benefits

1. Papayas are high in starch, vitamin C, and antioxidants that avoid arterial cholesterol build-up.

2. Single Papaya will meet more than 200% of your daily vitamin C requirements, which makes it ideal for developing a more robust immune system.

3. Papayas have a low sugar content (8.3 gm. in a cup of Papaya) and glycemic index. This property produces excellent papaya fruits for diabetics.

4. Papayas are rich in vitamin A and flavonoids such as beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, lutein that keep mucous membranes safe in the body.

5. Just 120 calories include one medium-sized Papaya. It also helps in the pursuit of weight loss.

6. Papaya is rich in many nutrients, such as vitamin C, which will keep you stress-free.

Papaya cultivation and agro-climatic condition

A tropical fruit, Papaya. Sub-tropical sections, however, also develop well. It’s frost-sensitive. The ideal temperature is 25-30 ° C and 16 ° C minimum. Appropriate pH is between 6 and 6.5. The foothills enjoying mild winters are suitable for papaya cultivation. Low temperature and frost restrict higher-altitude cultivation. Excessively cold nights cause slow fruit maturation and mediocre quality in the winter season.

papaya plant

Papaya cultivation and soil suitability

The right soil type is well-drained or sandy loam soil with enough organic matter. Sticky and calcareous soils aren’t pleasant because the soil can trap rainwater. It could be lethal to the crop. In this scenario, create a better-raised ground and drainage ditch. Furthermore, you must keep the field with enough soil moisture required to grow papaya plants.

Also, a ripening dry climate is fantastic for fruit quality. Additionally, in the same region, continuous cropping can result in reduced production. A slightly messy field is compared to a perfectly flat area. The region’s hilly soil is ideally suited to well-drained organic matter.

Steps involved in papaya farming

Now, it’s time to dive deeper into the steps involved in papaya farming. Therefore, those to better utilize your farming skills.

Propagation

You’ll need seed papaya propagation. Second, you must collect seeds. You can receive from ripe, big, healthy fruits, mainly from pest-free female plants. Often seeds fail to germinate because seed viability is lost in about 45 days.

Germination of seed

The equilibrium temperature is 21-27 ° C, and 19-29 ° C of extreme emergence. It takes 1-4 weeks after sowing, depending on the weather. Treat with Thiram (TMTD) W.P. Until, sowing young to combat fungal diseases.

Sowing the seed

In 8 – 9 cm long, 8 cm long, and 8 cm high or black soft plastic containers, you can use the clear plastic bag. The bags require drainage space. You may also use a plastic seedling tray. It is a new form of seedling for good seedlings.

Transplantation

When the seedlings are 15-20 cm tall, a razor blade will open the bag. Now the seedlings are set for evening transplantation in pits. You may plant three seedlings about 15 cm apart in each hole. Watering is vital after transplantation for rapid recovery from transplant shock.

Adding Manure

The plant requires continuous fertilization as fruiting begins at maturity. From day one, you will prepare for fertilization. Because a five-month transplant-to-first flowering cycle is essential for papaya plant nutrition. You will stop manuring 6 months before harvesting the crop.

Now it’s about cropping

Male papaya plants typically thrive and start flowering after three months of transplantation. When their presence is detected, you will delete most of them. Of successful female flowers, however, around one male tree is kept for every ten female trees. Papaya starts flowering about five to six months after transplantation.

Irrigation

Currently, irrigate every winter ten days or every summer week. However, it varies with soil, climate, and irrigation methods. You may use a loop, furrow, or drip irrigation. Be sure, however, to avoid water meeting the stem. Irrigation can avoid frost damage to plants.

Papaya cultivation and plant protection

You need proper disease management to get the optimum yield. The major diseases are powdery mildew (OidiumCaricae), anthracnose, and stem rot.

Another possible condition is a root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne incognita) frequently and gently extracts weeds at the early stage. Never deep soil tillage, however, because the plant has shallow roots. With 43% lasso E.C, you can apply herbicide once before an emergency.  

Harvesting

Overall, Papaya takes six months to bloom. And, five more for processing. However, it can vary with climatic conditions and management. For shipment to distant markets, fruits should be harvested when the apical starts to turn yellow, and latex is no longer milky.

In the cold months, fruits will stay on the tree to produce deeper colors and get a better flavor. In papaya cultivation, in the first 15 to 18 months, a tree with proper management produces 25-40 fruits weighing 40-60 kg.

Pest and disease control

The frequently found pests are fruit flies, aphids, red spider mite, stem borer, gray weevil, snail, and grasshoppers. They are all regulated by spraying prophylactic substances including 0.3% dimethoate and 0.05% methyl gemstone.

The growing diseases are powdery mildew, anthracnose, damping off, black spot, nematode, and stem rot. Essential control measures are growing disease-resistant crops, choosing well-drained soils, practicing crop rotation, and growing seedlings or plants under net households.

Intercropping with a barrier crop such as corn mulching the bed with silver and plastic film that immediately destroys infected plants and replants the crop to avoid this virus infection.

Yield from papaya farming

All cultivar yields are different. Suitable plants are estimated to produce 34 kg fruit per plant per year, which amounts to around 38,000 kg fruit per hectare. The total area under Indian papaya farming has increased in recent years. Papaya’s nutritional and medicinal value has resulted in heavy consumption within the country, i.e., only 0.08 percent is exported. Thanks to conventional agricultural methods, exports are also less competitive. Delhi and Mumbai are Papaya’s main markets. The country’s overall production accounts for 54-lakh tones/year.

What is the cost of papaya farming?

Papaya farming costs will rely primarily on the farmland location. The cost components are farmland acquisition, planting expenses, irrigation expenses, fertilization facilities like labor shed, and land growth. Other than farmland costs, papaya farming costs aren’t much.

How much profit can you mine?

The margin of profit in papaya farming depends on the land area and the diversity of Papaya growth. In general, papaya farmers get their entire investment payback in around 2-2, 5 years. However, in the end, we would say that the amount of profit entirely depends upon your practices and techniques you use for farming.

Guava Farming – Planting, Spacing, & Cultivation Guide

Guava fruit is well known for its good flavor and aroma. Its scientific name is Psidium guajava. Guava is also called the ‘apple of the tropics’. Guava is rich in vitamin c and minerals. It is also rich in antioxidants. Guava has many health benefits. Guava is mainly cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions.

Guava Farming is a very profitable business. Guava helps in curing many diseases. Guava is also helpful in losing weight. In 2019 the production of guava all over the world was 55 million tonnes. Guava trees start fruiting after 3-4 years of plantation. Guava is mainly grown from seeds or by vegetative propagation. Guava trees are very productive and adaptable.

Guava Farming: 

  • Description of the guava plant:

Guava tree has smooth, thin, and brown bark that peels off and reveals a greenish layer below it. The maximum height that a guava tree can reach is 33ft or 10m with a trunk of 10 in (25cm).

The leaves of this tree are evergreen. These leaves are oval and long, having a short petiole. These leaves are leathery in texture and when guava leaves are crushed, they have a nice aroma. The white flowers grow independently in the leaf axils. These flowers have 4 to 5 petals. 

  • Description of guava fruit:

The skin color of the fruit ranges from light yellow to pale green or sometimes pink. When you peel off the skin of guava, a layer of sweet flavor full and tangy flesh is present. The color of flesh can be white, yellowish, light pink, dark pink, red.

When the fruit is immature, it is very hard and astringent. When guava ripens, some of its varieties have custard-like consistency however the others are crispy. Mainly the central pulp is of the same color even if the surrounding flesh is lighter or darker. It is very juicy and has hard yellow seeds in it. 

  • Different types of guava fruit:

Guava fruit has many different varieties. Some of these common varieties are given below:

  1. Ruby supreme: This variety of guava is oval. It has a medium to large size. It has a pungent smell. Its flesh is thick and sweet. Comparatively fewer seeds are present in this variety. Ruby supreme guavas are excellent to eat fresh. This variety has good productivity.
  2. Red Indian: red Indian guavas are round in shape and have medium to large size. This variety has a strong odor. It has a sweet flavor and its flesh is red. It also has good productivity. 
  3. Beaumont: The fruit of this variety is large. Its color is either green or light yellow and has pink flesh. Beaumont guava fruit can weigh up to a pound. 
  4. Red Malaysian: This variety has very unique foliage and flowers that are deep red. These flowers are also used for decoration. This variety is frequently grown for ornamental uses. 
  5. Mexican cream: It is our next variety of guava fruit. These guavas have yellow skin and cream-colored flesh that is a bit spicy. It is mainly medium-sized. 
  6. Safeda: In this variety, the skin of the fruit is very thin however the flesh is thick and white. Fewer seeds are present in this variety. This is a very famous variety and grown widely. However, branches of safeda are brittle and can break continuously. 
  7. Bangkok apple: These fruits are large-sized and have thick flesh. It has fine color and taste.
  8. Lucknow: It is medium-sized fruit and round shaped. It has creamy white soft flesh with a sweet and pleasant flavor. It is a good quality fruit and has fewer seeds.

Propagation of the guava plant: 

Propagation of guava depends on the variety of fruit, the fertility of the soil, and the available irrigation provisions.

At what distance the trees should be planted?

A distance of 5to 8 m should be maintained between the trees. Standing spacing between them should be 6 × 6 m where 112 trees could be planted in one acre. High-density planting can lead the branches to grow towards the sky. This results in long compact trees that give a high yield in the initial years. 

Usually, seed propagation for guavas is not much preferred as the juvenile phase of seeds is very long. Seed propagation gives lower yields and poor quality of fruit.

However, if seeds have to be used for propagation, then these seeds should be sown immediately after it’s extraction from the ripened fruit. Soaking these seeds in water for 12 hours a day or soaking them in hydrochloric acid for 3 minutes gives 90% of germination. After one year the seeding is ready for budding.

Inarching is another way for the propagation of guava but this method gives a limited number of plants from the mother plant. Though budding is a very successful method of propagation it needs a large amount of labor. Another successful method is layering but again the condition is that a limited number of plants can be produced from a mother plant. 

The easiest and pocket-friendly vegetative method for the propagation of guava is marcotting. In this method, the parts of the hardened shoots of a selected variety are dragged. After this step, a mixture of moist earth, compost, rooting hormones is gathered at the spot. If this method is successful, roots will appear in 3 weeks. Seedbeds are also a good method for vegetative propagation of guava 

Must Read: How Long Does it take a Kiwi Plant to Produce Fruit

Fertilization of guava trees:

Different fertilizers are used in different regions. Fertilizers have to be provided regularly to produce high-quality flowers and fruit. Regular fertilization also helps the plant to grow faster. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium in the ratio of 6:6:6:2 are applied to the guava tree. 

Pruning of guava plants: 

Pruning of the plants is very important at younger stages as this helps to build a strong framework and avoid week crotches. Pruning if fruiting trees is important to prevent overcrowding. The plants are aimed as low headed trees as this makes the hand picking of fruits easy. Pruning is also helpful in increasing the size of the fruit and yield as well. 

Pest and diseases: 

Pest control is very important for good productivity and disease-free plants. Mainly fruit flies, stem borers, nematodes, thrips, mealy bugs, scale insects, and some more are the pests found in the guava field. These pests can be controlled by chemical spraying or using pesticides. 

Some other cultural practices can also be adopted to avoid fruit from getting destroyed. For example, removing the infected fruit or plant part so that it doesn’t infect the whole plant.

Diseases:

Some of the diseases of Guava plants are fruit canker, will, fruit rot, anthracnose, grey leaf spot, or more. More details about the diseases are given below:

Guava wilt:

The symptoms of this disease are: in the early monsoon, light yellow foliage starts appearing and loss of turgidity and epinasty can also be noticed. Later on, plants can show unthriftiness along with this, premature shedding and defoliation can also be seen.

Some of the small branches can become bare and may stop producing new leaves and flowers and eventually dry up. Fruits on all these affected branches are left underdeveloped, hard, and Stony. And finally, the plant dies at the end. In this disease, the roots also get rotted from the basal region. The bark also gets weak and can be easily removed. Discoloration can also be noted. 

How is it spread? This can be spread from the sick soil in Virgin areas. It can also be spread from water. Any root injury also promotes wilt diseases.

Fruit rot:

Symptoms of this disease can be mainly seen in the rainy season. White cotton-like growth can be noticed on the affected part that develops very fast. This pathogen can cover the entire surface within 3 to 4 days. When the humidity is very high, at that time the fruits that are near the soil get affected very easily. Below the white covering, the skin of the fruit becomes very slushy and its color becomes light brown to dark. 

How does it spread? This disease is mainly spread through wind or rain. It is also spread through pathogens. It can be also spread from the infected plant material like soil etc.

Fruit canker:

The symptoms of fruit canker can be seen mainly on the green fruit and rarely on the leaves. At first, brown-colored or rust like unbroken circular and harmful patches can be seen on the fruit that leads to infection. The crater-like thing can also be noticed. In some severe cases, a large number of cankerous stops can also be seen. The infected fruit doesn’t develop completely and is very hard. Sometimes tiny rusty spots can also be noticed on the leaves. 

How do fruit cankers spread? This disease is mainly spread through Pathogens. Anyone infected or injured by fruit or plant part can also be responsible for this. 

Also Read: How to Nurture the Dragon Fruit –An Exotic Tropical Fruit

Alga leaf and fruit spot: 

In this, the algae infect the Immature fruit and in this small brown velvety lesions can be seen on the leaves or leaf tip. The spots on the leaves may vary in size, there may be small tiny spots or big patches. The color of the fruit can change to dark green, black, or brown. In this, the size of fruit enlarges 

How does this disease spread? This disease is an air-borne disease and hence air and rain can be the carrier of the disease. Pathogens are another carrier of this disease. 

Stylar end rot:

The main symptom of this disease is a change in the color of the region lying just below and adjoining the persistent calyx. Such areas gradually increase in size and turn dark brown.

Afterward, the affected part becomes slushy. Despite these all symptoms of the discoloration of the pericarp, the mesocarp tissue also shows the change in color, and the diseased area is marked by being pulpy and light brown in color in contrast to the bright white. 

How does the disease spread? Again pathogens are responsible for this disease and these are spread through the wind. 

Irrigation if guavas: 

Usually, no irrigation is needed during the monsoon months unless and until there are long spells of drought. In the initial year when the plants are very young with a shallow root system, they should be irrigated even at 2 to 3 days interval in the dry season. Trees in the age group of 2-5 years should be irrigated at intervals of 4 to 5 days. 

How to harvest guavas? 

Fruiting starts after about 2 to 3 years of plantation. However, the yield of the fruit depends on the age of the trees, or how the trees are planted ( pattern ), and other cultural practices. The proper yield can be seen after 10 years. After 10 years 100 to 150 kg of yield can be seen every year. Guavas can be harvested at any time in the year. However if one wants the best taste, flavor, and aroma it can be obtained when the fruits are ripened. 

When these guavas are grown at a commercial level, the ripening can be noticed when the fruit starts turning yellow. If the fruits are to be transported to some faraway place, then they should be harvested when they are light yellow and yellow can be harvested for locals. 

Conclusion:

Guava farming is a profitable business but it needs a lot of hard work and time. 

With harvesting possible at any time of year, it can bring profits to you for a lifetime. All you need to do is beware of the necessities of guava plants and then you can get fruits whenever you wish.

Reference:

http://nhb.gov.in/pdf/fruits/guava/gua005.pdf

https://www.apnikheti.com/en/pn/agriculture/horticulture/fruit/guava

https://www-krishisandesh-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.krishisandesh.com/guava-cultivation-guide/?amp_js_v=a6&amp_gsa=1&amp&usqp=mq331AQHKAFQArABIA%3D%3D#aoh=16109678432103&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From%20%251%24s

Growing Cucumber – How to Plant, Grow & Harvest?

Cucumbers are worthy of each salad courtesy it’s health benefits. Cucumbers have a mild, refreshing flavor and a high amount of water. You will also feel dehydrate and enjoy eating them in hot weather. Generally, most of the diet conscious people use cucumber in their diets.

Moreover, it has a variety of applications in several beauty products due to its richness of vitamins and minerals.

Growing Fresh and Crunchy Cucumbers

Cucumbers farming

The fresh cucumbers have a special crunch with every bite. Cucumber farming would be a different experience.

Whatever the space you have, you can grow cucumbers. They can be cultivated in pots, bags or directly on the field successfully.

Also Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

Two main types of cucumber are outdoor and greenhouse. Plants of greenhouse cucumber make long, smooth fruit similar to those sold in the supermarket. 

On the other hand, others are called ridge cucumbers. It’s usually shorter and covered with red skin. 

Crunchy cucumbers, fresh from the garden are in a league of their own, so if you’re wondering whether to grow them or not, the answer should be a resounding yes.

Some of the cucumber varieties are more suitable for cucumber farming in the UK, either outdoors or in the greenhouse. 

Generally, the outdoor cucumbers also called ‘ridge cucumbers’ have resistance to the cooler climates and are often spiked or rough to the touch. Greenhouse cucumbers are a bit smoother fruits but do need that extra warmth to grow to the full capacity.

Some varieties prefer sheltered environments just like a greenhouse and others mature better out, in a sunny environment.

How to Sow Cucumbers

The mid-spring is the ideal time to sow the cucumber seeds into small pots with a general-purpose potting mix. Sowing depth of cucumber seeds is about an inch 3 cm deep.

Cucumbers germinate at least 20 degrees. This usually takes 7-10 days. Thus, you have to wait for a launch at the end of the spring.

 After germination, you should transfer seedlings to the place which has good sunlight and put them there until these are sufficiently large to transplant it. 

Once the seedlings start to appear, for better growth of a healthy plant remove the weakest from the pot and leave one per pot.

The liquid fertilizer is better for cucumber farming. Thus, a liquid fertilizer high in potassium is the initial diet plant within every two weeks that keep these hungry plants moist most of the time.

Must Read: How to harvest onions?

Growing Greenhouse Cucumbers

Greenhouse cucumbers can be transplanted into beds, large containers of potting soil. The other way to set the plant to grow is by setting two cucumbers per bag into bottomless pots set on top of the growing bag.

These will help to trap moisture and ensure cucumber plant care every time you water, instead of it running off over the surface.

Put in place supports such as bamboo canes, vertical wires, strong netting or trellis. Train vines up their supports then pinch out the growing tips when they reach the top to encourage side shoots. Take out the tips of side shoots to leave two leaves beyond each fruit.

Feed plants every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer that’s high in potassium and keeps these thirsty plants moist at all times.

You can exclude all male flowers from greenhouse cucumbers. This prevents bitter-tasting fruits. It’s effortless to identify female flowers by the slight swelling of the embryonic fruit behind each bloom.

Growing Outdoor Cucumbers

When the soil warms in late spring or early summer, outdoor cucumbers should be planted. For the perfect plantation, accustom the plant to a newer climate for a week or two preparations slowly for a week or two.

On the other hand, you could sow seeds directly to their actual rising places in warmer climates.

Cucumber farming considers the healthy, fertile soil just like other plants. Thus before planting, you can collect plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as manure. 

It is ideal to set the plants at about 18 inches apart when you raise your cucumbers upward using supports like a trellis. Alternatively, position them about three feet from each other if you let them scatter over the soil surface.

The outdoor cucumber needs insect pollination. Therefore, the plant needs the involvement of male and female flowers. Thus, you should not remove the male flowers.  There is no need to remove male flowers as greenhouse cucumbers. It is important to have this marriage for better and high yields.

Feeding to the cucumber

Cucumbers are typically grown at the same location as other vegetables in the case of a greenhouse. And, in this case, farmers usually use the same feed for all vegetables. 

In the case of the cucumbers are provided the more effective and balanced fertilizer. The yield is higher.

High nitrogen requirement in cucumber feed

A small cucumber plant has a larger leaf that is even greater than the leaves of other plants. 

As nitrogen is the fuel for flower growth. Cucumbers need more nitrogen than other major nutrients such as magnesium, calcium, iron, and manganese. 

 In the case of organic, the high liquid nitrogen feed would benefit cucumber farming to the full capacity.

Cucumber Plant Diseases

1. Powdery Mildew

The fungus emerges first as several white spots on the cucumber leaves and grows quickly as very small, threadlike powdery areas. It seems like a cotton-dumpling demon that absorbs plant nutrients, so if you don’t handle it, it can contribute to a serious infestation. The yield will be greatly affected, even if they mature.

When you just begin to see the mold on the leaves of the cucumber or if you had previous problems and want the chance of powdery mildew to be reduced, milk is an all-natural effective barrier to funguses. Dilute and spray the milk on the plants in the ratio of 10 parts water to 1 part milk.

Baking soda has solid household applications and can be applied to this list as “treating powdery mildew.” A 1 tablespoon soda solution in a gallon of water is adequate to be successful, but a soap or dish soap would need as an additive. Some growers often add oil, neem or standard cooking oil.

Sprinkle the mixture again early in the day, and then rinse in the evening. The persuasive mildew requires a very favorable pH to survive and baking soda is enough essential to render the leaves desolate. 

2. Bacterial Wilt

Bacterial wilt affects the fruits in cucumber farming more intensely. Infection is recognized with often witty and dried branches, often even overnight. 

One simple way to prevent bacterial wilt is by cutting off a wilted stem at the base and rubbing the cut with your fingertip.

 If you take off your finger gradually, the plants have bacterial wilting threads out of the cut. There is no remedy for this cucumber decay.

3. Fusarium wilt 

Fusarium wilt is another issue with the cucumber plant which is a difficulty to treat and overcome. In dry climates, the pathogen is much more widespread and can damage, in addition to cucumber, a wide variety of vegetables.

The dropping leaves is the beginning of this disease. This can be identified by the slicing the main trunk of an infected fusarium wilt vine. If it’s the base is spotted with dark stripes. The fungicidal soil drenches the remedy of this infection while treating the soils before plantation can prevent the unfortunate loss. 

4. Cucumber Mosaic

At any stage, this disease will invade cucumber plants and the virus spreads systemically in the plant once the plant is infected.

Symptoms appear 7 to 14 days after infection and develop most quickly at low temperatures.

 A pale or dark green mosaic or mottling develops first on the youngest leaves. The outer borders curl inward. New leaves are stunted and twisted.

Flowers can exhibit strange properties like green petals. The fruit of contaminated plants is often smaller and somewhat skewed, and display light and dark green mosaic patterns on the surface.

In this case, it is important to buy the treated seeds for cucumber farming that often highlighted at the label.

Harvesting the right cucumber

The cucumbers are best plucked before their seeds become hard as they are preferred eating as immature.

While a yellow and mature cucumber is of the highest quality when it is uniformly green, firm, and crisp. 

Cucumbers that are left on the vine for a longer period would get tough skins and eventually lower plant productivity.

You should collect fruits during the cucumber cultivation every few days at full harvest time as they grow rapidly once at the peak.

Storage of Mature Cucumber

Although a fresh cucumber has the highest level of water content and crunchiness.

Cucumbers are over 90 percent water. This is ideal to store them wrapped tightly in plastic wrap to retain moisture. if there is a need to store them for a longer time, you will keep them for a week to 10 days when stored properly in the refrigerator.

Also Read: Growing the Avocado

Ivy Gourd Farming: Planting,Care, and Harvesting

Friend’s today we are adding a new member to your farming list. Ivy gourd farming is new on the bucket list. You will be glad on knowing the benefits it adds to life. 

This cucumber-type appearing vegetable belongs to the Eastern part of Africa. It is also cultivated in the tropical part of America, Asia, the Pacific, and the northern part of Australia.

It is also popular by the name of the scarlet gourd. Ivy gourds are inclined towards climbing.

You can find the most commonly used in Indian dishes. But it is adored and relished worldwide for its contribution to health.

To find out what Ivy gourd farming is? This article will cover every nook and corner related to Ivy gourd farming.

Types of Ivy gourd

There are only two types of Ivy gourds: Striped and non-striped.

Soil, Climate requirement, and land preparation

For good Ivy gourd farming, you must have sandy loam soil enriched with nutrients. It should also not waterlog. 

You should restrain from using acidic, alkaline, or other sorts of heavy soils. The PH range of 6-6.5 should be maintained.

A humid and warm climate is what these ivy gourds love and crave. The temperature range should fall between 20 to 32 degrees for a good yield. 

Though the Ivy gourd cultivation can be done at any point of time during the year. For amazing results rainy season or warm weather is preferred.

No great efforts are to be made for getting the land ready for cultivation. Just thoroughly plowing should be done to entangle the soil and check for weeds, if any.

After that, a good quality manure should be applied to the soil. The ground is now ready for Ivy gourd cultivation.

Also Read: Radish Farming: Planting, Harvesting, & Diseases

How to plant Ivy gourd

Vegetative propagation is the planting style popularly practiced in Ivy gourd cultivation. The propagation is processed either using stems or by seeds.

But through seeds they take at least a year to reach a plant. When opting for stem cutting propagation, you should fix the width to 2 cm and the length to 20 cm of the stem.

Those stem cuttings should go 6 cm deep into the soil having a basin width of 60 cm. And the same way you can proceed with other cutting while maintaining a gap of 2 cm. This is the way how to plant Ivy gourd in the field.

How to grow Ivy gourd from seed

How to grow Ivy gourd from seeds is an interesting process. Get some scarlet gourds from the supermarket and cut them to remove the seeds.

After this, you can immediately sow these seeds, without stressing about the weather conditions. That means they can be planted at any time just to avoid scorching summers. 

Remember, the temperature range between 15 to 27 degrees work wonders and promotes sprouting at a faster rate.

Though, planting can be done through seeds also but it is not a good idea. There are harms of adopting this procedure.

There are chances of disagreement between the seeds and true fruit. And it is evident to end up without any fruit, for you need to plant female and male plants next to each other.

Must Read: Snake Gourd Farming

Season for plantation

The Ivy gourd cultivation should be done before the onset of rains or in the spring season. As these are perennial, so replanting should be done at least after 4 years. There must be 2 metre bamboo stick should used to render support to the plant.

Ivy gourd plant care

A proper Ivy gourd plant care ensures a good quality of Ivy gourd. Following things should be kept in mind while taking care of the plant:

  1. Spacing: The spacing pattern remains the same as cucumber plants. At some point in time, they start searching for a company and tend to get attached.
  2. Weed Control: During the early stages of Ivy gourd cultivation weeding is a must to do activity. As it is inclined to reproduce many other small plants and twigs effect the plant growth.
  3. Water Supply: At the budding stage, it should be watered properly. Once attaining growth, the water supply can be stopped.
  4. Pruning: This adds life and energy to the plant. After pruning, don’t dump the cut branches and small twigs as can regenerate.
  5. Pest Control: The major enemies of Ivy gourd cultivation are Thrips, mites, Aphids, and Whiteflies. Their spread can be checked by treating them chemically.

Harvesting Ivy gourd farming

These scarlet gourds are ready for harvesting in a 3-month time. A hand sickle or a cutter is an advisable tool to be used owing to its small size and to avoid any damage to the vine. 

This harvest results in a yield of 12 to 15 tonnes per hectare in Ivy gourd farming.

Benefits of Ivy gourds

  1. Diabetes control: The leaves of this plant when consumed in a raw state helps in controlling the sugar level in the blood.
  2. Checks obesity: It keeps so obesity free by accelerating the metabolism rate.
  3. Reduces fatigue: Rich in iron provides a backup for energy level. As it reduces the iron deficiency in the body.
  4. Corrects the functioning of the nervous system: Ivy gourd is a bag full of nutrients and vitamins which are associated with the healthy functioning of the nervous system.

Conclusion

There is nothing much to discuss Ivy gourd farming. One thing is clearing its farming is not very much profitable like other veggies.

Still is not a bad idea to go for Ivy gourd farming. Not on a large scale but can be executed profitably as a small-scale farming option. 

Go ahead and do share your Ivy gourd farming experience. Stay connected for more updates.

Bell Pepper Farming: Planting, Growing, Pruning, & Harvesting

Bell Pepper crop is mainly grown when the weather is warm. These crunchy Bell peppers have some sweetness in them however they lack a component called capsaicin that gives it the heat. The external skin of the bell peppers is very smooth and provides a shield to crunchy flesh present inside.

Bell Peppers are hollow from inside and have so many seeds in the middle, attached to the white-colored membrane that lies along the wall. These are also known as the colored capsicum that is mainly red, yellow, and green. These have vitamin C and vitamin A in them.

Organic capsicum farming needs a temperature of 15 to 25° celsius and these grow very well at a height of about 2000 meters above the sea level. Bell Peppers can be grown in greenHouses and in greenHouse cultivation one can get up to 120 tonnes of yield to each hectare. 

Climatic conditions for growing bell pepper:

Bell Peppers can be cultivated in cool as well as warm conditions however extreme weather conditions are intolerable. So in summers to avoid too much heat, shading can be done. 20 to 25° C is the best temperature for germination as well as fruit set. 

Selecting the planting stuff for bell pepper plantation:

First of all, all the materials that you select for planting should be healthy. All the stuff should be diseases and pest resistant. Coming to the seedlings, for bell pepper plantation, the age of seedlings should be about 40 days. The seeding should be up to 20 cm long.

The crop should have a fine rooting system. The stem of the seedlings should possess a few leaves on it during the plantation. Selecting a good variety of all the planting material is very important for good quality fruit and high yield as well as good production. 

Must Read: How to Germinate Chilli Seeds

Soil preparation for bell pepper: 

The soil has to be properly loosened and make a nice tilth. After this beds are prepared to have heights of 45cm and 75cm wide. But before this step either vermicompost or properly decomposed organic matter along with sand and sawdust should be added to the soil.

Afterward, the beds are soaked with 4 Percent of formaldehyde and then are protected with polythene for about 4 to 5 days. Later on, these polythene covers are removed. Then the beds are to be raked regularly every day to remove the fumes of formaldehyde that are stuck in the soil. Sandy and loamy soil are best for these capsicums. For bell pepper, the pH of the soil should be 6.0- 6.8. Along with all these, this plant also requires a lot of care. 

Planting and Pruning of bell pepper:

When the seedlings are completely ready, then these are planted in the rows that maintain a distance of 60cm between them and the distance between the plants has to be 30cm. Imidacloprid is sprayed on the seedlings to prevent any pest infestation.

Pruning of bell pepper

During plantation, the bed should be watered, as the bed has to be completely wet during this process. After this, the seeds have been sown in two lines on the beds. Plastic mulches can also be used for this purpose as it also helps in controlling weeds and saving water.

Irrigation of the bed has to be done daily until the seeds are set up well. Later on, the drip irrigation method is used to irrigate the field with 2 to 3 liters of water to each square meter every day.

Pruning is started after about 20 days of plantation and this has to be done after every 7 days.

After the completion of 4 months, this activity has to be done once in 10 days. The seedlings of bell pepper are planted in a zig-zag pattern on the beds. 

Diseases of bell pepper: 

Mainly the disease is fungal diseases that include damping off, grey mold, pythium, powdery mildew, fruit rot, etc. 

Damping-off:

This is a disease of seeds that occurs when the plant has just started to grow. Pythium and Rhizoctonia solani are carriers of this fungal disease. In this disease, fungi destroy the root system of the plant. Some plants having this disease may have the potential to grow mature however these fungi will cause root rot and gradually kill the plant.

Growing the seedlings in an inert medium can help avoid this fungal disease however the reason for this disease can be poor sanitation in a greenhouse or improper soil, or climate or not irrigating on time can also be responsible for this.

When this crop is grown at a commercial level, the seedlings are transplanted from the greenhouse to Rockwool where the best conditions are provided and chances of any disease are also very less. Selecting fresh and healthy seeds and growing the plant under ideal conditions can help control the disease. 

Root rot or pythium crown disease:

This disease is not very common and usually occurs after the dumping of the disease. The main reason for this disease is stressful conditions in the greenhouse. This disease can be under control by growing the plant in ideal conditions and maintaining the temperature in the root zone and irrigating them from time to time. 

Fusarium stem or fruit rot:

In this dark brown soft, and black lesions appear on the stems. This fungal disease is mainly caused by Fusarium solani. These black lesions may also be seen around the calyx and this degrades the quality of food.

Fusarium stem or fruit rot of bell pepper

To avoid this fungal disease, the greenhouse should be neat and clean and some sanitation should be exercised to prevent fruit rot. The plants that are infected should be immediately and carefully removed from the greenhouse to avoid the spread of disease to every plant.

The greenhouse should be properly ventilated so that it has good air circulation and talking about the humidity, it should not rise more than 85 percent otherwise it will be harmful. 

Also Read: Why Are Bottom of Tomatoes Turning Black: Blossom End Rot

Gray mold fungal disease:

The fungus Botrytis cinerea is responsible for gray mold disease. It is a very common disease. High humidity and bad air circulation favor this disease. In this disease, the fungi get into the crop from the wounded area where greenish colored lesions develop.

gray mold fungal disease in bell-pepper

These lesions griddle the stem and the plant dies at the end. The gray mold infection is usually found in the wounded area or calyx in the beginning. To avoid this fungal infection, proper air circulation has to be maintained and the relative humidity should not be more than 85 percent. 

Powdery mildew:

This is the next disease of bell pepper. This disease is mainly caused by Leveilluta Taura. This disease was first reported in Canada. In this disease, the overall crop yield decreases by 10 to 15 percent. In this disease, the white powdery layer can be seen on the surface of the leaf. 

These were some of the fungal diseases and their symptoms and control. Next comes the diseases caused by viruses. 

  • PMMV:

Pepper mild mottle virus: In this disease, any part of the plant can get infected. This disease is very difficult to detect until the plants start fruiting. In this disease further, the growth of a plant can be infected. Symptoms of this fruit occur well before the stunting symptoms and include the development of obvious bumps on the fruit as well as color streaking and green spotting when the fruit matures to color. The fruit is very sharp from the corners and may also develop sunken brown areas on the external skin.

Daily use of skim milk as a dip while handling the plants helps to prevent the spread of the virus in the crop. Skim milk has the protein that helps to bind to the virus and disables it. The virus is secure in the sap of the plant. This virus easily expands from plant to plant.

Once the plants start fruiting, PMMV (pepper mild mottle virus) can be easily detected in the plant through its symptoms on the vegetative parts of the plant. Infected plants should be pulled out very carefully and crushed because the virus can survive in a dry plant also. If all plants bear normal fruit, then it means that the plant is known disease-free and the use of skim milk can be stopped.

  • Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV)

Tobacco mosaic virus disease can be found in greenhouse pepper throughout the world. Initially, the symptoms of this virus can be noticed on the surface of the leaf-like an injury with the main veins. Along with this wilting and leaf drop can also be observed. Also when the new plants start growing, then also these symptoms and this disease can be found in the plant and even it degrades the growth of a new plant.

To avoid this virus disease-free seeds should be used. The utility of skim milk dip can be helpful. The fully grown plant may carry the disease without showing any symptoms of the disease plants. 

  • Tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV)

Tomato spotted wilt virus TSWV has a long list of hosts that upsets almost 300 different species of plants. Thrips are the main reason for the spread of this virus, these thrips are the main problem in the greenhouse plants.

There are blackish-brown round shaped spots or tan spots that are surrounded by a black margin. 

 When the fruit ripens, the color of the fruit changes with orange to yellow spots having a green margin. Green spots can also be noticed at the backside of the ripened fruit that is red, yellow, or orange. 

Control of this virus:

This virus can be controlled by checking on the thrips and controlling them. In the starting, knowledge about thrips control and the other reasons for the spread of this disease should be gathered. One should take care of all the symptoms to avoid the disease.

Check on weed is also very important as if you don’t cut off the weeds it will suck all the necessary nutrients and the plant quality will degrade. Ornamental plants should be kept away from the greenhouse as they can also be a source of the virus.

Harvesting of bell pepper: 

The activity of harvesting can be initiated after completion of 2 months after plantation. However red and yellow capsicums take 3 months to become mature. Harvesting is done at the interval of 10 days and is carried out for almost 200 days.

Harvesting of bell pepper

After harvesting these can be stored in a cool place. These fruits are wrapped properly and then stored at a temperature of about 8° C and can be stored maximum for two months. After wrapping the capsicums, these can be packed in cartons of different sizes according to the need.  

Tips for growing bell peppers: 

  1. Mulching should be done from time to time and properly for good quality and high production. 
  2. Irrigation also has to be done properly as bell pepper needs deep watering. Especially in dry conditions watering should be done on time otherwise the fruit will taste bitter.
  3. Bell Peppers are warm climate crops and need proper sunlight for good growth.
  4. Using the correct fertilizer is very important as this greatly affect the crop yield
  5. Staking is not compulsory in bell pepper however it can help the crop to keep it off the floor. 
  6. Keeping a check on the pests is very important to avoid the diseases and hence suitable insecticides or pesticides should be used

Conclusion:

Bell pepper farming is a very fun activity as well as a profitable business. One should take care of all the necessary activities and take proper care of the crop.

Powdery Mildew of Pumpkin

This is a type of fungal disease that can occur in a large variety of plants. Different types of fungi are responsible for this disease. Due to their different symptoms, these diseases can be easily diagnosed. In this disease, powdery spots of white color can be seen on the stems and leaves.

The leaves on the lower part are mostly affected however this effect can be noticed on any part above the ground. In this disease with time the size of spots increases. In this the affected plant becomes weak and due to this the size and taste of fruit also get affected. Powdery mildew of pumpkin can be avoided by separating off the affected part from the plant, planting the plants at more distance so that they can get sufficient air.    

What causes powdery mildew on pumpkin plant :

To treat or prevent the disease properly, it is important to know the cause of the disease. This common disease is caused by fungi. The fungi named Erysiphe cichoracearum is responsible for powdery mildew in pumpkin. It affects the leaves, flowers as well as stem of the plant. It also has an impact on the yield. Due to the microscopic spores that exist in chains, the white-colored powder can be seen. 

These spores germinate without water. Hence they grow very fast in dry and warm weather conditions. More spores are produced within days. The wind is the agent that spreads it to other plants. Sometimes the weather conditions also support the growth of this powdery mildew. These conditions include dry days and cool nights with humidity. In these conditions, the infection spreads rapidly. Other than this the temperature range from 68°F to 80°F also favors the disease. 

Must Read: how to plant, grow, and harvest pumpkins correctly and properly

Some other reasons for the disease can be: maintaining less distance between the plants. If the air circulation is not proper, the chances of the disease are more. Hence proper distance should be there between the plants and the greenhouse or the garden should be well ventilated. 

The next reason is the lack of light. When the plant doesn’t get sufficient light, it also favors the infection. Hence the leaves of the plant should be planted in such a way that it gets sufficient light. Exposing the leaves to shade for a longer time will help in the production of buds hence adding to the disease. 

Next not treating the disease after discovering it or not keeping a check on it will be carelessness. Due to this, the leaves first turn yellow, and then they will die and fall. Along with this, the white spots can lead to a sunburn of pumpkin.

How can you treat the powdery mildew of Pumpkin:

There are a lot of different methods that can be adapted to treat this disease. From these so many methods, the organic method is considered the best way to treat this infection. However chemical treatments are also available.

Also Read: Why Are Bottom of Tomatoes Turning Black: Blossom End Rot 

Some of the preventive measures for powdery mildew are: 

  1. Planting the pumpkins in a way that they get proper sunlight. As we know that insufficient sunlight can lead to this disease therefore proper arrangements for enough sunlight should be there.
  2. The next preventive measure can be planting the plant at the correct distances. A lot of distance should be maintained in each plant as planting them closely leads to infection. Hence to ensure proper air circulation, well distance has to be maintained and the garden or greenhouse should be well ventilated. 
  3. When you water the plant, try to water near the plant and make sure that leaves don’t come in contact with water. 
  4. If you see the symptoms of the disease or see the spots, immediately remove the part of the plant to avoid the spread of infection to the whole field. Cut off the infected part and dispose of it. Also, check all the other plants carefully as it spreads very easily through air or wind. 
  5. Further, do sterilize all the tools used for pruning to prevent the spread of disease to other plants. For this keep the scissors in a solution made of one part of bleach and four of water. Also, make sure that you wash your hands properly after you deal with the infected plant. Spray the foliage in the field so that the powdery mildew doesn’t occur again. Put 2 tables of aspirin in the water and then dissolve it well and spray the solution on the leaves. The best time to spray this can be early morning. 
  6. If the plant still doesn’t get rid of the disease and the infection occurs again and again then you have to detach the whole plant and fungicides have to be sprayed to the soil to prevent the infection from spreading to the whole field. 
  7. Keeping a check on weeds and removing them from time to time is also a very important step as weeds can act as an obstacle for the sunlight and plants may not get proper sunlight.
  8. However, if you are growing the plant at home in your garden then there’s a simple home remedy for the disease. For this, you have to mix the water and milk in equal amounts and then spray it on the plant two times a week. 
  9. One can use organic compounds like sulfur or potassium bicarbonate. These organic compounds are very effective for powdery mildew.
  10. One should check the plant at least once a week to avoid the disease.

Bottom line:

The disease powdery mildew of Pumpkin is very common and also spreads very easily. Hence it needs proper care. To avoid the disease or to prevent it, the above given preventive measures should be taken. This fungal disease can affect the yield as well as the taste of the plant hence one should keep a check on the plant. 

Soybean Farming: Planting, Growing & Harvesting

Soybean farming is traditionally a part of Indian Agriculture. It is a golden-colored bean-shaped crop. 

The crop is extensively high in protein content. Soybean is largely consumed for its edible oil.

Soya is also a consumable milk product. Enormously utilized in the form of neutral tasting soya chunks.

Indian loves this for its low-fat content and rich omega 3 fatty profile. This crop helps in fetching a good amount of revenue.

If you are looking into soybean farming, there should be a proper layout designed accordingly.

Essentials for soybean farming

When planning for soybean farming, you should have a complete idea about its necessities.

Soil

Soybean gels along loamy, and well-drained soil. It should have a PH balance between 6-7.5. Water-logged soil hampers the growth of this golden crop. So, it should be taken care of on a disciplinary basis.

Planting Season

Mid of April till May or June is the best suited time for planting soybeans.

Seed Selection

Go with a genetically trusted variety of seeds for soybean farming. The seeds should be free from diseases, healthy, and fit for planting.

Irrigation

As it is a Kharif crop, which means sown at the onset of monsoon, no more irrigation is required. But when it comes to a drought prone area, field needs to be watered properly. Due to rains, care should be taken to choose well-drained soil.

Preparing land for soybean farming

This is the initial step towards soybean farming. For a good production, it must be ensured that the land is not sown with soybean crop earlier. Or you can say, field should have a clean history.

It leads to the growth of small unwanted plants on the land.

Also, it becomes a habit for pathogens that might develop due to previous cultivation. So, the best way out is crop rotation. This ensures a perfect crop.

Ridges and furrows should be made according to the need of the method to be practiced.

Planting soybean

Planting soybean depends upon the seed and the weather. It is a myth that the sooner you sow them the earlier you get them. 

Make it crystal clear the ground has to be moisture-laden and the temperature should be heading towards a warmer effect.

Ensure that the crop must not be threatened by the frost effect. A warm climate maintains the soil temperature for healthy cropping. 

For amazing results plant them in April end. Although over time lot of techniques have been evolved for a perfect yield. But the weather is still the deciding factor.

Planting soybean

Tool requirement and seed spacing

The tool requirement remains the same for soybeans and corn. A corn planter ensures an accurate depth and firm fix in the soil. 

Being soil type and atmospheric conditions, the deciding factor, you need to go according to them. 

Planting the soybean seeds 1.1/4 to 1.1/2 is the advised depth for an impressive yield. Last you can go till 2 inches but the variety must have the capacity to thrive excellently well.

Spacing is not a compulsory practice to be followed in the case of soybeans. Though a space of 30 inches is great, as intimacy between the plants might generate bugs and pathogens.

Also Read: What is Mango Farming all about? A complete guide

How long does it take for soybeans to grow?

A soybean farming attains maturity at 3-4 months from being planted. Rest the quality of the seeds also determine their growth rate.

Don’t forget all the necessary conditions for growth shows impressive results. And the sprouting phase comes in 3 to 7 days of sowing seeds.

Remember to feed them with good fodder and they start cropping within time.

How long does it take for soybeans to grow can be achieved by providing them with all the necessary required things for growth?

Weed control in soybean farming

Cropping up of weed is the major issue in soyabean farming. To check the growth is a task to be carried on a routine. A continuous effort has to be made for discouraging the weeds.

Weed control in soybean

You can look for some weed dismantling elements to be added to the soil for the relief. These defoliants for stopping weeds get life on adding water to them. Adding water is done to moisten them and not water-logging.

This is done generally after 24-30 from planting the seeds.

Soybean growth stages

The production in soyabean farming is classified into 4 stages:

  1. Flowering:

The reproduction process starts when the seeds start coming to life. Soybean is typically a night-lover crop. When they get longer nights than day, seed instigates flowering.

Flowering Soybean

By this time, the plants have attained a height of 15 inches almost. Now, the flowers start emerging from the nodes of the stem. The flowers are placed between the leaf axil and are known as racemes.

These flowers turn into pods that bear the seeds. Then there are secondary racemes which are again dependent on the primary ones.

  1. Complete flower:

The complete blooming is attained when the flower reaches full size and opens up at the upper node on the stem. The emergence of a new flower slows down rendering space for the bloom. 

Blooming indicates that the growth of soybean is at a rapid pace with the plants becoming 17-22 inches tall. Thereby the lateral roots becoming deeper and firmer to the soil.

In this, the plant has reached 50% of its height and growth. Prevention from insects, illness and hails increase the output rate at this time.

  1. Pod arrival

The pod arrival is a sign of the emergence of a bean. This is a crucial stage in the development of fruit. The plant is sensitive to any sort of damage.

As it can affect the pod size and number, bean size and number, and the seeds too. However, a prolonged flowering time can be helpful. The flowers disappear up to 70% as the pods appear and grow in size.

Now by this time the plant size is about 22 inches or more, which means almost near to maturity.

  1. Complete fruit

The pod grows in size and number heading towards completion. It marks the end of the soybean growth stages. The plant is fully grown by now bearing pods as the result.

The only thing to keep in mind is the irrigation part. Also protecting the plant from damage in the early growth period to get a healthy fruit at the end.

Pest and disease of soybean

Soybean farming is susceptible to pests. The pest and diseases of soybean affect their growth. Some of the common diseases are a bacterial blight, downy mildew, bollworm, and corn earworm moth. 

All these pests hamper the growth and curb it by 15-20%. Proper treatment for pest and disease control in soybean farming is necessary to increase the production rate.

Must Read: Why Are My Spinach Leaves Turning Yellow

Pest and disease control in soybean farming

Fungicidal seed treatment is a preventive step for root rot or where the seeds are planted in wet soils. At the time of plantation, fungicides are applied to the soil. This protects the seeds and accelerates the growth.

Pest and disease control in soybean

Soybean rust can be checked by the proper and timely application of fungicides. These soybean scouts mean spots on the leaf must be checked timely to restrict the spread further.

Organic farming in soybeans

Organic farming is among the best soybean farming techniques. The farm is solely prepared for soybean farming. Although, we know that crop-rotation works wonder for soybeans.

A best tropical or temperate climate with good fertile or productive soil adds life to the farming. Good organic manures and timely weed check are the necessary elements for the acceleration of growth. In case of phosphate deficiency.

Crop-rotation is carried out to discourage soil damage. Fixing nitrogen level to the soil should be followed. The PH should rank between 6.5-7 for a great yield. Once fixing the soil needs for the farming. You can proceed further.

Now, go for crop-rotation as it focuses on curbing pests and enhances soil productivity too. Spacing should also be done. About 45-60 cm gap should be there to allow the crop to grow.

The organic soyabean farming technique is beneficial for soybean cultivation. It improves both the quality and quantity of production.

Soybean yield accounts for 18 to 35 quintals per harvest. With the passage of time yield of soybeans has gone amazingly high. Today, the organic soybean yield per acre accounts for 163 bu/ac.

Harvestation of soybeans

Harvesting of soybean ranges between 50 to 145 days from the plantation. At this time the leaves acquire a yellow color and droop down. You can see the soybean pods popping out of the plant. The seeds should be 15% moist at the time of harvest otherwise they tend to dry out easily.

Conclusion

Soybean farming is among the profit yield businesses. The soybeans are less input and high output crops. They fetch more return with minimum investment. Excellent management is more than enough.

High in demand in the form of seed oil, chunks, chaaps, yogurt, and much more. Having a cluster of benefits for pocket and health makes it fit for farming.

Weight management, keeps diabetes under control, improves digestion, and circulation in the body.

If you want to have your soybean venture, go ahead. 

Radish Farming: Planting, Harvesting, & Diseases

Radish ( Raphanus ) is a well known crop of both tropical and temperate regions. It is a quick growing crop and hence can be easily grown as intercrop along with other vegetables.

The roots of these crops are the edible parts that are fusiform and the color ranges from white to red. There are two different genetic groups of this crop. These are the Asiatic variety and the other is the European variety. 

Firstly the Asiatic variety is a tropical crop that produces edible roots in the first season whereas  seeds in the second season are biennial crops. However in the European variety, roots are produced in the plains of tropical as well as subtropical climate and the seeds are produced in the hills of temperature climate.

 Different types of Radish: 

There are different types of Radish plants for example watermelon radish, French breakfast radish, zlata radish, cherry Belle etc. Let’s discuss in detail about some varieties of radish. 

Watermelon Radish:

This variety of radish is moderately sweet and less spicy. It shows mainly three different shades of color that are light green, white and beige. However like it’s name it’s color reminds of a watermelon. After plantation it matures in about  50-60 days. For proper growth there must be a minimum 3 inch of distance between them. 

French breakfast radish:

It is our next variety of radish, red in color and is more elongated than the round radish that has round tip white in color. Along with it’s pleasant crispy taste it has a reflection of sourness. This variety of  radish matures very early and within 25-30 days after plantation and seeding is ready for harvest.

Zlata Radish

It is quite different from the other varieties due to its yellow brown color and oval shape, it looks much similar to potato. This variety of radish is ready to harvest in probably 30 days. Zlata radish has small green leaves that can be used for salads as well as can be used for other green recipes.

Cherry Belle

It is dark pink in color and round in shape. It tastes sweet and crispy. It is mostly eaten as salads. This variety of radish also matures very early within 25-27 days after germination.

Daikon radish : 

This is a large sized radish about 14 inches long. It can be picked after about 60 days of germination and plantation. It has a delight and crispy flavor with a little bit of sweetness. It needs at least 4 inches of space to grow properly

White Icicle:

This is our next variety of Radish which is cylindrical in shape and about 5-6 inches long. Fresh white icicles taste the best. It can be harvested in about 30-40 days after plantation.

Round Black Radish:

Similar to it’s name it is black in color and has a very unique taste. It is spherical in shape. Though it’s black in color from out but it’s flesh is white and creamy with a strong flavor.

Chinese Rose:

This variety of radish has a broadened shape. Its color is red-purple from outside and has white and pink colored veins inside. This variety matures in early autumn. It has a very particular taste. In the beginning it’s taste is delicate but suddenly the taste buds will sense a surprising pungent sensation.

Horseradish:

This is the radish that doesn’t leave a bitter taste. Winters are best for plantation of horseradish and they mature in springs and can be refrigerated too.

Easter Egg Radish

They are named so because of their shape, its shape is like that of an egg. Easter Egg Radish is available in a number of colors like white, pink, red, lavender and purple colors. They should be harvested when their diameter measures 1 inch as harvesting at this stage can avoid it from turning hard or bitter.

Lady Slipper: 

It is news because of its unique shape. It has a bright and shiny pink color that is very attractive to eyes. It is white from inside and is sweet and crispy.

Plantation of Radish: 

The seeds of radish germinate within 5-8 days according to the moisture levels. These are very easy to grow and can be grown in pots as well as containers.

One can grow these at home on balconies or backyards or on the terraces. It matures in 4-5 weeks and is ready for the first harvest. These regenerate from the roots and can be grown from scraps too. Cooler climates are more suitable for it’s growth but also need sunlight.

Overcrowding can be a problem and the radishes may not grow properly. Radish requires Sandy soil that is fertile, well drained and has good organic manures. If these are grown in a pot or containers then adding compost can be useful. Radish needs about 1 inch water every week but one should not over water it or let it dry completely.

Leaving them on the ground for a long time can cause the radish to split. A well balanced N:P:K ( nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) is also a main requirement of radish along the other micronutrients.

Land preparation

Firstly the soil has to be ploughed 30-40 cm deep and it should be prepared properly so that there are no clots left. Any undecomposed matters should not be present in the soil as it can cause  forking of the root. Adding farmyard manures or garden compost can help to enrich the soil with organic manures and provide good yield. A pH range of 6-7.5 of the soil is appropriate for radish.

Also Read: Turnip Farming Information Guide

Soil sterilization

The soil can be sterilized maine by two methods that are physical and chemical methods 

In physical methods, the soil can be sterilized by heat treatments like it’s treatment with steam or with solar energy. However in chemical methods the soil is treated with herbicides or fumigation. Soil solarization is another method of soil sterilization in which a transparent plastic mulch film is used for the purpose.

During this process the the solar radiations passes through the plastic film and then is absorbed by the soil and then the absorbed rays gets converted into heat energy and due to which the temperature of the soil increase and hence it’s helpful in killing the soil borne diseases that includes pests as well as pathogens. For one hectare of land piece, about 10-12 kg of seeds would be enough. It is also found that for stimulating the germination of radish seeds naphthalene acetic acid can be proved helpful. For this the seeds have to be soaked in Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) 

Best time for sowing:

Radish is a winter crop cultivated in plains. The sowing process can be done in early winter however the sowing period can differ from place to place as it’s different for plains and hills.

Radish is generally grown on the ridges for good production. It can be grown as both single as well as companion crop. The minimum distance between the rows should be 45cm on the other hand the minimum distance between each plant should be 8cm. The depth at which the seed is sown is 1.15cm . There are 2 main methods of seed sowing: line sowing and broadcasting method

Line sowing method:

In this method the seed has to be mixed up with the soil  in 1:4 ratio and then placed in a row with hands over the ridges. After this it has to be covered by a layer of soil.

Broadcasting:   In this the seed is mixed up with the soil in the same way as done before and then it is scattered all over the field evenly. After this planking is done. 

Radish crops need uniform watering to maintain moisture in the soil. It should be watered For first 4 to 5 days and then irrigated at intervals of 3-4 days. If the soil is dry then the radish may taste bitter However on the other hand over watering can rot or split the roots. Irrigation also depends on the season ( rainfall conditions)  or the moisture levels of soil.

Manuring: 

Mixing the farmyard manures or garden compost entirely while land Preparation can be helpful for a good crop. However doses of other fertilizers like potassic phosphatic should also be added in the soil before sowing the seeds. As radish is a fast growing crop so the soil rich in the plant nutrients can prove to be more helpful.

Weed control:

Weeding is a process that is a very important part of cultivation of almost every crop, and so is for radish. Regular weeding has to be done to keep a check on weeds so that our crops get proper and sufficient nutrients.

Especially in the rainy season two weedicides are needed so that weeds don’t suckup all the nutrients. Tok E -25( nitrofan 25%) keeps a check on both monocot and dicot weeds. Earthing up and weeding both should be carried out at least once in the early stages. Earthing up should be carried out as it ensures the quality of roots. Once after the initial stages earthing up should be again done during the flowering and fruiting.

Diseases :

Clubroot is a Radish plant disease marked by the swelling or malformation of roots or the lateral parts.

This can be controlled by raising the pH of soil with heavy dressing of lime and keeping the field free from mustard. 

Plantation tips:

1. Seeding process should be carried out in early spring.

2. The seeds should be planted half an inch deep and at a distance of 1 inch from each other.

3. Keep your garden free from weeds for good quality.

4. Keep the soil from crusting around the plants as this helps the radish to become large.

Harvesting:

Harvesting is one of the important phases of radish cultivation as if you leave it unharvested for a long time it becomes inedible. Generally the crop needs to be harvested after completion of 3 weeks after sowing.

How do I know that the crop is ready to harvest:  Radish is ready to harvest when the leaves about the ground become large and 2-3 cm wide at the top.

Then pull out the mature radish from the ground separate off the green part on the top. The harvested radish can be refrigerated but has to be used within a week. If you want to save the seeds for next season then leave the radish in the ground for flowering.

Must Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

Yield: The temperate varieties of radish produce 10-12 tonnes of radish per hectare within a month whereas the Asiatic variety produces 14-15 tonnes within one and half month or less. It is a very profitable business with 

Marketing of the crop:  Mainly the transport of the crop is carried out with trucks to the local areas 

Conclusion: 

Radish is a crop that is grown and eaten throughout the world. It has a number of varieties namly pink radish, Malaga violet, white hailstone radish, cherry Belle l, watermelon Radish etc etc . It can be eaten in a number of ways, may be raw or in salad or cooked but salad is one of the most common ways to eat radish.

All these different varieties have their own flavor and tastes , some of them have a bit of bitterness in them. Along with different tastes these different varieties have different maturation time, some mature very early on the other hand some take time to mature. Radish crops germinate in a short time and also don’t take much longer to mature. 

Carrot Farming: Planting, Growing, and Harvesting

Carrots are a member of the Apiaceae family. This family generally includes celery, dill, cilantro, and anise. These are biennial crops and produce taproots in their first year of carrot farming. These taproots are consumed by people. Further, if they are not taken out and left to grow in the ground, they flower and produce seeds and then die in the second year. 

Carrot farming is quite lucrative and its benefits vary with variety and place of production. 

The botanical name of carrot is Daucus carota. 

All carrots can be consumed from the root to its tip. They can be found in various rainbow colors like red, orange, purple, or yellow. Leaves of carrots can also be used in salads. They are loaded with flavor and texture. They are very popular and versatile. Plus, it is a long-lasting root vegetable 

In the U.S. mostly orange colored carrots are found. They are consumed fresh and can be stored for some time. This vegetable ranked 6th most eaten vegetable in theU.S. in 1997. Its consumption was recorded as 14.1 pounds per person. However, till 2015 its consumption lowered down to 9.31 pounds. 

Different types of carrots?

Carrots are available in different colors, shapes, and sizes. 

Based on shape, they are divided into 5 types. 

  • Danvers – this is the most commonly known carrot variety. It is long, slender, and tapers at the end. This variety is named after a place of growth i.e. Danvers. They are mostly found in orange color but are available in other shades too. As compared to other carrot types, they can easily tolerate poor soil. 
  • Nantes- this variety is round at the top and cylindrical. They have very few green tops and crunchy taste. The sweetness of this variety makes it delicious to eat. This carrot type grows faster than other types of carrots. Around 40 varieties fall into this type. 
  • Imperator- this carrot variety is most commonly found in the U.S. It looks similar to a danver but is greater in width than Danvers. Sugar content is also higher in this variety. They have fast-growing tops. 
  • Chantenay- Before Nantes, this carrot variety was very popular for growth in heavy and clayey soil. They grow up to 6-7 inches and tops grow very fast. 
  • Ball or mini- these carrots are small in size as the name suggests. Due to their short size or shallow roots, they are perfect for containers. The size of carrots ranges between 3-4 inches. 
 types/varieties of carro

Varieties of carrots

Some commonly used varies of carrots are-

  • Bolero- This variety of carrot is slightly tapered. It grows up to 7-8 inches. They can resist leaf pests and blights. Therefore, they can be easily grown in areas that suffer from this problem. 
  • Danvers -This variety is a classic heirloom. The size of this variety varies from 6-8 inches. They taper at the end too. Danvers can grow in heavy soil and are rich in texture and have an orange color. 
  • Littlefinger- little fingers are heirlooms and are small Nantes. They only go up to 4 inches in height. Growth of this variety can be easily carried out in containers. 
  • Nantes- these cylindrical carrots grow up to 6-7 inches. They are sweet and have a crisp texture. 
  • Thumbelina- these carrots have a round shape and grow well in clayey soil. Containers are also suitable for thumberline production. 

Carrot growing season 

Carrots are cool-season crops. They can grow perfectly in temperatures ranging from 18-21C. This temperature range provides edible roots optimum color.

Carrots are grown in loose or sandy soil. Growing in such kind of soil provides enough room for roots to expand without any restrictions. Keep in mind that any root or soil clumps should be completely removed from the planting site. They grow well in cool seasons. The best time to grow carrots in spring or fall. 

It takes around 2-4 months for carrots to fully mature. You Can keep planting carrots in spring and summer after every 3 weeks to get a continuous supply of carrot still cold frosts hit. 

In the U.S. for fresh carrot farming, the gross value is $10600 per acre. This value may vary with the area and merchandise level. 

What should be the soil condition for carrot farming?

As mentioned earlier, the soil should be loose and sandy for letting carrots to grow fully. If soil is not good then carrots may face stunted growth. 

Soil can be cleared up to 12 inches in depth. Remove rocks, pebbles, soil clumps, or any other plant roots from soil to provide a clean and free area to grow. 

Do not add fertilizers that have nitrogen in them. It leads to forking in carrots and the growth of side roots too. 

Grow carrots in older coffee grounds for getting nutrients from the soil

If the soil on the planting site is clayey or heavy then cover it with 12-inch deep sandy soil. Then you can carry out carrot farming on it. You can also use airy, loamy soil for the same. 

If soil is heavy, compact, and overly packed with nutrients like nitrogen then it leads to misshapen carrot production. They are not quite fit for consumption. 

When to plant carrots?

For harvest in summer, you should sow seeds at least 3-5 weeks before the last spring frost date. There is various software available to check frost dates in your area. 

Keep sowing seeds every 3 weeks to harvest carrots continuously later on. 

For harvesting in the fall, you can sow seeds in mid of summer end. You can begin showing 10 weeks before the first frost. 

For sowing seeds, you must prepare your planting site. The soil must be favorable for carrot farming. It should be loose, airy, loamy, and sandy for carrot farming. The planting area should receive full sunlight. However, carrots can survive in partial shade too. 

Also Read: Turnip Farming Information Guide

How to plant carrots?

Rather than sowing seeds in containers first and then transplanting, start sowing directly into the soil. Carrots do not like to get their delicate roots disturbed. Therefore, it is better to place them in soil and do not disturb them till harvesting. 

While sowing seeds, sow them in ¼ inch deep holes. Keep them around 2-3 inches apart in 1 feet rows. 

Distribute seeds evenly to get a good harvest at the end. Scatter them here and there will not ensure properly and fully grown carrots. They might face competition from each other. 

Further, the soil should be moist but not wet. Keep adding shallow waterings regularly. A crusted soil top is not favorable for the germination of small carrots. To avoid this condition, cover the top of the soil with a vermiculite or compost layer. It keeps the soil moist and doesn’t let the crust form. 

It takes around 2-3 weeks for germination. Carrots germinate slowly so many gardens prefer sowing radish along. Radish is ready to harvest in a very small time. To speed up germination on carrots you can perform a damp paper towel method. That allows seeds to sprout before being sewed into the soil. 

The adequate temperature for seed germination is 50-85F. It can germinate at low temperatures up to 40F and as high as 75F if it is provided with adequate moisture. Seeds can be stored and used for 3 years. 

Care Of Carrots 

To keep carrots weed-free and healthy, mulch can be used. It helps in retaining moisture in the soil and suppresses weeds too. Also, germination speeds up if mulch is used. It also blocks sunlight from falling directly on roots and damaging them. 

The thinning of carrots can also be performed when they grow about 1 inch tall. Thin carrots so that they stay at least 3-4 inches apart and do not become crowded. 

For better growth, snip tops of carrots using scissors rather than pulling. 

Providing a proper amount of water is crucial in the growth of carrots. They need moisturized soil but it should not be too wet. Wet soil can lead to diseases and even cause the death of plants. Water up to 1inch per acre per week. When carrots mature, water can be increased by up to 2 inches per acre. 

Nitrogen is harmful to carrots so avoid nitrogen fertilizer use. Instead, high potassium and phosphorus fertilizers can be used after 5-6 weeks of sowing. This ensures nutrition for carrots. 

Must Read: Rabbit farming: How to Start Raising Rabbits

Harvesting Carrot production

When harvesting, know that smaller carrots taste better than larger ones. They can be harvested after 60-80 days of sowing seeds. 

When to harvest carrots?

Carrots are ready to harvest when they reach at least ½ inch in diameter size. If the growth of carrots was carried out in spring or early summer then harvest them before it gets too hot. Heat sends signals to carrots to make their roots more fibrous. This condition can make them a little nonedible. 

Moisten your soil a little to ease out pulling carrots while harvesting. 

In fall harvest, wait for the first fall frost before harvesting your crop. Cover soil with about an 18 inch leaves layer. After frost, pull out your carrots. The reason behind this is, frost tends to force carrots to store energy in roots. Energy is stored in the form of sugars. Hence, your carrots become sweeter at this time. 

Do not wash your carrots if you are not going to use them next week. 

How do you know when carrots are ready to pick?

Tops of carrots start popping out of the ground sometimes and it is a clear indication that they are ready to harvest. Their tops can be around ¾ inch to 1 inch in diameter. Moreover, its color is vibrant. 

If carrot tops are not bulging out themselves, remove some soil from their sides, and check their condition. 

Generally, this happens around 60-80 days after sowing seeds. 

Storage of carrots

Cut the greens of the carrots but leave 1/2 inch of it attached to the carrots. It is necessary to remove greens otherwise they will extract all sugars away from carrots. 

Wash carrots with cold water remove all dirt from them. Seal them in airtight plastic bags after air drying and store them in the refrigerator. If you leave them just as it is they will limp soon. 

Carrots can be stored in a cool and dry area. You can also fill up a place with dry sawdust and store carrots in it. 

Pest and diseases in carrots 

Carrot rust flies, flea beetles, black canker, root-knot nematodes, and wireworms can easily infect and feed on carrot production. 

Nematodes have a very vast host range and too much infection of carrots can make them unfit for cultivation. 

After yellow disease, carrots produced are short and have discolored tops with roots very hairy. Leafhoppers move from one plant to another and lead to this disease. No treatment or control strategy is available for this disease. 

Health benefits of carrots

Half cup of carrots has the following nutrition- 

25 calories, 2g of fiber, 6g of carbohydrates, 0.5g of proteins. 

Half cup of carrots has the following amount of vitamins and minerals-

73% of the daily requirement of vitamin A

9% of the daily requirement of vitamin K

8% of the daily requirement of potassium and fiber content 

5% of the daily requirement of vitamin C

2% of the daily requirement of iron and calcium

Also, it has beta carotene and vitamin A which is good for the eyes. 

It also aids in lowering down the risk of cancer. Antioxidants present in carrots fight with harmful radicals in the body. Carotenoids and anthocyanins are the main antioxidants present in carrots. 

Heart diseases can be prevented by carrot consumption. Antioxidants are good for health and potassium keeps blood pressure in check. 

Conclusion 

Carrot farming can be easily carried out by taking care of basic things. They have very high and regular demand. The growth of carrots is easy and therefore, it can be a profitable business for you. The yield of carrots varies depending on the variety that you choose. So, check out varieties that grow well in your area and provide profits at the same time and then begin.

References:

http://www.carrotmuseum.co.uk/historyusa.html

https://www.agmrc.org/commodities-products/vegetables/carrots

https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1175&title=Commercial%20Production%20and%20Management%20of%20Carrots

Why Are My Radishes Growing Above Ground

Radishes are a healthy and versatile plant. They can be consumed as toppings on salads used in western dishes too. The juice of radishes is full of nutrition. It is also cooked as a vegetable in various parts of the world. Along with all of this, radishes are so easy to grow and consume. 

But while growing radishes you can face some problems too. Problems that occur while growing radishes can be woody stems, bitter taste, cracking in roots, not forming bulbs, too hot taste. And while growing radishes, one question you might ask is, why my radishes are growing above ground?

Here we shall discuss why radishes grow above ground and solutions to this problem too. 

First, check out these numerous benefits of radishes. 

They can be eaten raw or can be cooked too. Only half a cup of radish has enough vitamin C to fulfill your daily need. It also has nutrients like vitamin K, vitamin B6, potassium, niacin, phosphorus, riboflavin, calcium, and magnesium. 

Along with this, extracts in roots of radish have the power to kill cancerous cells. It is also great for bowls. To add to this, radish consumption can control blood sugar and cholesterol levels. Gastric ulcers can be cured by radish juice. Natural antifungal agents are present too. 

Why are my radishes growing above ground?

There can be few reasons behind this and they are mentioned below-

1. Imperfect Soil

If soil is not fit and does not match the required criteria for growth then abnormalities are obvious. Soil should be loose and crumpy to grow perfect and healthy radishes. In case, the soil is too compact, roots do not get enough space to expand. Therefore, first, they grow small in size.

Next, when they have no space to expand, they push themselves out and radishes start growing above ground. This situation can be prevented by loosening soil a little. It provides enough space to grow freely and thus, they do not pop out. 

The soil must be loosened and well maintained with compost and dry leaves up to 14 inches. 

By the time radishes start popping out of the ground, the problem would have increased very much without you noticing. Thus, if they come out by a quarter of an inch, check soil integrity. 

2. Seeds not sown deep enough

Seed packets bought from the market suggest sowing seeds up to ½ inch inside the ground. Scientists suggest that seeds must be sown at least one and a half inches deep in the ground for perfect growth of radishes. Sowing seeds above can lead to roots or main bulbs coming out of soil early. 

Sowing seeds deeper ensures proper growth and maximum output. 

3. Temperature of soil 

Soil temperature becomes unsuitable for radish growth when radish seeds are not sown at the correct time. The best time for sowing seeds in the spring season.

Sowing too early or too late makes them face too cold or too hot soil temperature which affects the growth of radish. Further, temperature above or below 80F is not suitable for radishes. Therefore, radishes come out of the ground. 

Must Read: Radish Farming: Planting, Harvesting, & Diseases

Tips to prevent radishes growing above ground

  • Make sure soil is loose and crumbly up to 12-14 inches deep. 
  • Use compost and dry leaves to make soil fit for radish growth. 
  • Seeds should be sown at least one and a half inches deep for maximum output. 
  • Maintain good moisture in the soil to avoid bitter radishes. 

Radishes turning long and thin 

There can be various reasons behind radishes turning long and thin. First of all, understand that the growth of leaves generally determines when they are to be pulled. Sometimes, leaves can be healthy but radishes below-ground can be long and thin and unfit for consumption. 

You can check growth by pulling the main root out a little. The main taproot is strong and deep and does not get affected much. However, tiny roots attached to the main one can get damaged by harsh pulling. So, be careful while checking. 

Now if your radishes appear to be long and thin then this might have occurred because of your little mistakes like- 

  1. Overcrowding- Radishes grow below ground and require enough space for proper growth. If they don’t get enough space due to overcrowding then they grow long and thin. Radishes should be grown 2-3 inches apart. This makes sure each one gets enough space to grow fully. 
  2. Sunlight- 6 hours of sunlight are a must for healthy and fully grown radishes. Alteration in sunlight periods affects growth and makes them long and thin. 
  3. Regular watering- radishes require a lot of water to grow. Shortage in the water supply makes them long and thin. However, too much water can destroy them so care must be taken. Radishes can bolt if hot water is supplied.
  4. Temperature- 80F is the optimum temperature for radish growth. If the temperature is above 80F, radishes start producing flowers. 
  5. Nutrients- improper intake of nutrients causes thin and long main roots. If high nitrogen content is added to the soil, radishes focus more on leaf growth than root. 

Radish leaves turning yellow 

Various conditions can result in the yellowing of leaves like overcrowding, lack of sunlight, competition for weeds, irregular watering, pests, or diseases. Few diseases that lead to yellowing of leaves are- 

  • Septoria leaf spots- this condition leads to yellow spot formation on leaves. Well-drained and nutritional soil prevents this disease. 
  • Club rot- yellow leaves, tumor growth, and swelling in roots us seen. It can be prevented by crop rotation. 
  •  Downy mildew- Angular yellow spots appear on leaves along with the white or grey fungus. 

Holes in Radish leaves 

Flea beetles can lead to holes in the leaves of seedlings or small transplants. Larvae of flea beetles feed on radish leaves and make holes in them. 

Holes eaten in the leaves of radishes by flea beetles, early June.

Cultivating them often can help get rid of flea beetles. The Garden should be kept clean to avoid pests. 

Conclusion 

Radishes are an easy to grow and versatile plant. They take only 3-4 weeks to grow and ready to eat as such. But growing radishes can be accompanied by the above-mentioned problem too. Therefore, take steps to prevent and cure these ailments and you can grow perfect radishes that are fit for consumption.