Turnip Farming Information Guide

Turnip farming can be performed on commercial or personal scale very easily and with minimal efforts. Gaining much needed knowledge gets you ready to start. Check out this full guide on turnip farming. 

Turnips are cool weather vegetables and its botanical name is Brassica rapa. These are considered as staple food for humans and livestock too. They have a rosette of bright green leaves that grows from tubers or swollen roots. Turnips are consumed for their swollen roots and greens. Also, they are biennial but grown as annual.

Most commonly found turnips are light purple in colour from top and white from bottom. However, more than 30 varieties of turnip are  found over the globe. All of these vary in shape, sizes, and colours. Some might taste as sweet as carrots and others might taste like a potato. 

Swollen turnip is eaten by people all over the world. It can be either consumed raw or stewed, roasted, boiled, mashed with other root crops to consume. Greens of turnips can be consumed too. People cook and eat them in the same manner as spinach as kale are. 

They generally grow in spring and fall.temperate climates are best suites for turnips. Therefore, they are mostly grown in the USA, UK, Poland, China, France etc. They have been grown and consumed for over 3000 years by our ancestors. 

It is advised to avoid hot summer weather for their growth. Turnips tend to become woody and bitter in hot temperatures. They mature rapidly and are very easy to grow in home gardens.

Turnips are considered biennials hardly. They are mostly grown by people as an autumn crop. 

As mentioned earlier, turnips can be fed to livestock too. Animals can be fed upon turnips after they are harvested. Or browsing animals can consume them in fields too. Few people plant turnips to attract deers to their fields.

Also Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

Varieties of turnip

There are various varieties of turnips. Most popular varieties of turnip are Purple top, Royal Gloss, Just Right ( 40-60 days), White globe( 57 days), Tokyo Express, Market express, Shogoin, and mild Hakurei. Best varieties in the case of greens are Alltop (50 days greens), Topper, Royal Crown (52 days) and Seven top( 45 days,greens). 

Yellow Globe produces golden turnip roots and is great for roasting. For upper midwest and canada, Green Globe and York Globe are the most suitable varieties. 

Health benefits of turnips

Turnip is full of nutrition and anti-disease properties. Moreover, the health benefits of turnip are immense too. 

  • Nutritional value-

1 medium turnip is laced with following nutrients-

Calories- 34g

Fat- 0.1g



Fiber- 2g

Sugar- 4g 

Cholesterol- 0g

  • Vitamins and minerals 

Calcium- 3% of daily value (DV)

Folate- 5% of DV


Potassium- 115% of DV

Phosphorus- 3% of DV

Vitamin C- 30% of DV

Turnip greens are also full of nutrition. Vitamin A and C are found in abundance in turnip leaves. One cup of greens contains 6373 IU of vitamin A and 33mg of Vitamin C. 

Health benefits

Vitamin C is helpful in protecting the body from free radical damage. To add to this, it increases iron absorption and regulates blood cholesterol. 

Vitamin K, on the other hand, prevents excessive bleeding. Vitamin A regulates eye, skin and lung health. 

Anti cancer properties Turnip is famous all around the globe for its anti cancer properties. It helps prevent growth and spread of cancerous cells. Also, turnips are rich in glucosinolates. Glucosinolates are a group of bioactive plant compounds. These compounds have antioxidant properties and therefore, reduce risk of various cancers like lung cancer, colon cancer, rectal cancer etc. 

Along with this, they are also enriched with flavonoids. Mainly anthocyanins are found in turnips and they are known to have anti cancer properties too. Plus, they lower the risk of chronic and degenerative disease. 

Control blood sugar Turnip swollen roots and greens are believed to have anti-diabetic effects. They can control metabolic disorders like high blood cholesterol, high triglyceride levels. Further, they increase blood sugar clearage and lower production of glucose from the liver. Also, they reduce the absorption of carbohydrates. 

Anti inflammatory– Many diseases cause inflammation in the body part as symptoms like arthritis, cancer or high blood pressure. Turnip can be helpful in such a condition due to the presence of glucosinolates. It breaks down into indoles and isothiocyanates which have anti-inflammatory properties. 

Protect against Bacteria– Turnip has antibacterial and antimicrobial properties also. Turnip ensures inhibition of bacterial or microbial growth in the human body. 

Weight management– It is a non starch edible, full of fibre, and has very low calorie count. Therefore, consuming this will help you stay full for longer periods and healthy.  

Promote bone healthMaterials present in turnip have the power to maintain good bone health. Vitamin K found in turnip helps in bone metabolism. 

Liver protectionConsuming turnip ensures lesser glucose production and thus less stress on the liver of the human body. 

How to grow turnips

First of all, you must be aware of when to grow turnips. Turnip growth months vary with region. For late spring harvest, you can sow seeds directly in your garden around 2-3 weeks before the average last frost date. For instance, in USA zone 2a, the best time for sowing seeds of turnip is august and September for autumn harvest. You can easily check out the best month of growth of your region. 

For autumn harvest seeds are sown in late summers. These seeds are generally sowed after summer crops of onion,squash, beans or sweetcorn. Seeds can be sowed in early autumn too to get a late autumn harvest.

They grow in temperatures ranging from 40F to 70F ( 7-24C). They must be reaped out before temperature exceeds 24 C. 

Next thing that you need to focus upon is the planting site. The place for growing turnips must receive full sunlight for maximum hours. Soil of the area must be well drained to ensure good growth and sweet and tender vegetables. If soil is heavy or clayey, you can fix it by adding sand in it before seeding. Remove any stones at the site to provide a bigger area for roots to expand. pH of soil must be ranging between 5.5 to 6.8.

Addition of compost and well aged manure is suggested. Manure or organic compost is enriched with nutrients and minerals. Therefore, it is very beneficial in the growth of turnips. 

Soil bed must be weed free. But keep in mind that removal of weeds can disturb roots of young turnip plants. Therefore be careful while removing weeds. Usage of mulch is proven beneficial. It helps in retaining moisture in soil and suppresses weeds too. Addition of peat moss, compost,coconut coir or well aged manure is also favoured.

Although not much care is needed for turnip plants but do provide them with enough moisture at all times of growing period. Watering must be done upto 1 inch per week to avoid bitter and tough roots. It is observed that they demand dry bed but wet heads. Plus, soil must be kept moist at all times. 

Overcrowding must be avoided in case of turnip plants. It results in small roots in turnips. 

How to sow turnip seeds

Turnip seeds are sowed directly into the soil. Just scatter the seeds in your garden. Dig a small hole of ½ inch depth. Place the seed in it and cover it with soil and then patt a little.  Further, they must be placed 2 inch apart wide rows of 12 inches. In later stages,thin them upto 4-6 inches apart for large turnips while 2-4 inches apart for greens. Overcrowding can be an issue for turnip plants. Therefore, work out these beforehand. 

You can also grow turnips in pots or containers. The container taken for turnip growth must be 8inch deep at least. This depth will ensure proper growth of roots. 

Further, for summer harvest, seeds should be sown in early spring, 4-6 weeks before the last expected frost date. And in the case of autumn harvest, sow seeds 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost date. You can expect mature turnips in early spring and after 2 months of first frost date respectively. 

Germination time of turnips

Turnip seeds take around 3 – 10 days approximately to germinate. Soil beds are required to be moist all the time for faster and better germination of turnip seeds. The temperature conditions must be favourable and the best temperature for germination is 71F or 21C. Also, colder temperatures can delay germination. Optimum Temperature for turnip growth is 16C. 

Diseases in Turnip

Pests can affect turnip plants in various ways. Some might cause defects in vegetables or some can affect leaves of the turnip plant. Whatever, it is they ,ust be taken care of to ensure healthy plants. 

Aphids and flea beetles are disastrous for turnips. Aphids can be removed by pinching out the foliage. While on the other hand, flea beetles can be removed or avoided by getting rid of weeds in the area of turnip plantation. 

White rust of fungus is also a disease seen in turnips. It results in small white cottony blisters on the upper surface of the leaves. Yellow discolouration is also observed on the underside in this disease. 

Alternaria leaf spot- In this disease, small black spots appear on leaves which turn into brown or grey. It is caused by fungus and can be treated with a fungicide. 

Anthracnose- Small circular shaped spots appear on leaves. High number of spots can kill the leaves of turnip plants. Lesions turn leaves into yellow and make them wilt. The cause of this disease is fungus. Sanitary practices must be considered to avoid fungus and cruciferous weeds should be gotten rid off. 

Black rot- dark rings appear on the cross section of stem in black rot. Lesions of v shape can also be seen. Leaves can turn into yellow or brown. Cause of disease is a bacteria. Good sanitation must be ensured and avoid sprinkler irrigation. 

Club root- slow and stunted growth is observed.roots become distorted in this disease. It is caused by fungus. Treatment of this disease is economically unfeasible. In future,purchase certified plants from a renowned nursery.  

Downy mildew- irregular yellow patches on the leaves are observed and gray growth is observed on underside of leaves. Apply appropriate fungicide and  remove crop debris. 

Root maggots- This insect leads to root damage and scars on the turnip. 

Growth time for turnips

It takes from 5 weeks to 2 months to grow turnips. Growth time for turnip varies on the basis of a variety of turnip-like greens, tender roots to eat, or larger roots to store. It takes 60 days to grow fully but if you pull them out in 30 days, they will be very small in size. 

Growing for 60 days helps in making them more flavoured and avoid watery or bland taste. 

Along with time, take care of proper water supply too, in order to receive sweeter and tender turnips. 

When to harvest turnips

Small, young and tender turnips can be harvested after 5 weeks of sowing seeds. Main crop can be harvested from 6 weeks to 10 weeks. 

Fall turnips are harvested after light frost and they are known to be sweeter than other harvests. Do harvest them before hard breeze for best results. 

Lift roots when they are 2-3 inch in diameter. Further, you can cut leaves of turnips when they are 12 inch long. Keep in mind to lift them very carefully with a garden fork.  

After harvesting turnips, you can store them for 3 or 4 months in cool,dark and humid places.  Turnips can also be stored in the root cellar, a vegetable drawer for the fridge in a perforated plastic bag. 

Turnips plant  is such a plant that doesn’t require much effort for growing. You just need to take care of the water supply and good soil condition for them to be best. Ensure good fertility in the sowing and growing period to receive sweet and tender turnips. Above mentioned knowledge is enough for you to get started. Then what are you waiting for, just begin. 

10 Common Raised Bed Gardening Mistakes

A smart way to increase your gardening will be lightened with the growing of raised beds and improve the aesthetic of your garden. If you are new to gardening reduce the margin for error with the help of growing raised bed.

Raised bed gardening is not the perfect technique for getting success. But every technique should have certain mistakes to hide the success.

If you have limited space for gardening, then the raised bed gardening is perfect. Here are the best tips to fill your raised beds for cheaper and also made the pallet gardens which are fit in the space. Raised bed technique is a better choice to do but it requires more work and effort. 

1. Raised beds are too wide

One of the best advantages of the raised bed gardening is to avoid soil compaction. You can easily work on them without stepping into it. Which gives ultimately strong and healthier plants due to better soil structure?

The gardening raised beds width is too large then it prevents you while working on it within your reach, so you have stepped inside the bed it will defeat the major purpose of the raised bed.

Because of this reason raised beds are not more than four feet wide. Without any issue or problem, most of the people will reach within the center comfortably in four feet wide raised bed. I have experienced about this four feet wide span is more comfortable for me.

While choosing your raised bed, firstly you have to consider the location of the bed where to place it. If the location must be next to fence. I recommend not exceed than thirty inches with this you can work on it easily from one side itself.

 2. Don’t plan to irrigation

Hand watering is good for irrigation but you have to plan how to irrigate the beds within a specified time with new techniques.

Mostly I recommend drip irrigation or soaker hoses for raised beds. If you have a large number of raised beds then drip irrigation is fine for that and it works great and cost less also. Soaker hoses are for a few raised beds they will perform fine.

Also Read: Importance of farming in our life

3. Unsafe material used

It is important to know where you live and how was the climate then decide what kind of material should be used to build raised beds. Wood is a common choice for the raised bed because it is inexpensive and easy to obtain.

But don’t use the pressure-treated wood for raised beds because before 2003 manufactured pressure-treated wood contains chromate copper arsenate and it will harmful.

Many people are using chemical-free and rot-resistant wood such as cedar or redwood but it was somewhat expensive.

Before build raised beds, do you research first and avoid old railways ties which contain creosote which is harmful to human and plants also.

4. Lack of nutrients in soil

Are you thinking about using native soil which is cheap because it is already there? But most of them don’t have good soil to start with. Then you have to test the soil you will get the information about the soil and decide it can amend your native soil to work with it or you have to start from starch.

The best thing for raised beds is by using a combination of garden soil with compost. But it depends upon your budget and availability.

5. Skipping to mulch

Normal gardens cant dry as quickly as raised beds so keep your plants happy with the help of mulching it will retain moisture and cut down on weeds.

In wet seasons it acts like a sponge absorbs the water while excess rainfall in dry times and it will regulate the moisture in heat of summer. You can compare mulched raised beds healthier than without them.

6. Neglecting your pathways

Harmful chemicals used nearby raised beds can destroy your garden. Even if you used these kinds of chemicals in your yard the toxins can flow through the wind into the beds and kill your plants. So take precautions for the safety of your raised beds from harmful chemicals.

The pathways among your raised beds will likely develop weeds and grass at a few points. However, in preference to making plans to mow and spray them, you may create a barrier. Flattened cardboard containers with a small layer of natural mulch on the pinnacle are a clean cure, and the substances will remain longer than different options.

7. Label everything

The one common mishap goes for all gardening, but it is always repeating. Label your plants while planting them and what they are. You can also use it to set up a spreadsheet or else label them physically in the beds.

This is very important while dealing with boxes of dirt it looks like the same until the growth will be started. So you can’t get an idea about the things that are growing in the eastern corner of the fourth bed until the end of July.

Also Read: Growing the Microgreen Broccoli

8. Failing Poly tunnels

If you do not connect the tunnel to the raised bed, you will seriously miss the opportunity. You already have the ideal setup for a raised bed tunnel. You can easily extend the growing season on both sides by building flower beds on them. Once the spring gets warmer, you can remove the tunnel and add it back when the weather gets cold again at the end of the season.

9. Orientation

If you planting your garden in the wrong place is a big mistake and it is very difficult to correct or relocate the correct location once you fill the soil in the raised bed, watering system, and plants too.

Now set up the raised beds as per the sun rays fall on the plants. It requires five to six hours of sunlight each day for vegetable plants.

Placing plants north-south side is better to get sunlight. It will receive the maximum amount of sunlight.

10. Doing the same crop every year in the same location

You can rotate your crops for a single year because it will overrepresented certain fungal diseases, nutrients, and pests in the soil if you don’t rotate the crop in the field. While planting thought about the same crop will not be planted in the same location for every year.

Of course, no matter how you plan, there is no better teacher than experience. When pulling up the bunk, you may encounter an obstacle that you never dreamed of. This is good. Take this lesson and upgrade your raised bed in the next season, please be sure to let us know what your difficulties are so that we can learn too.

Growing Beets in Containers | How to Grow Beets in Pots

Are you searching for a fast-growing root crop to plant in containers? Then why not trying growing beet that is simple! It is the answer to your need.

You don’t like the spicy bite of radish, although these roots grow crops fast too, the radish can yield sooner than beets.

The beet crop prefers cold weather and spring-fall then you will be allowed to utilize summer crops for growing containers crops after you harvest them. That’s wonderful! Let’s continue to learn how to grow beets in containers.

Choosing the container:

Here you have to consider a container for growing the beet in the garden in almost any climatic or soil condition is completely fine too. 

The size of the container should matters when planting beets in them. If you consider the smaller container then the soil in it dries out and less room for its root has to grow.

Depth is the most important factor to consider when growing radish or beet in a container, but a container that is too large is also difficult to move and expensive to fill properly. Moving them from a small container to a larger container is something that plants hate, so it’s important to grow them in a permanent container, 

However, you can use biodegradable pots like peat, newspapers, and other organic materials for transplanting if you like. 

This material quickly decomposes in the soil, so the seedlings can be transplanted without removing from such a pot, without damaging the roots when handling. 

Beets are ready to transplant when they have the first few true leaves, it is too late to transplant when they are older, which increases the likelihood of shock to the plant, resulting in stunted growth.

 There must be enough space for the beets to grow normally. Therefore, it is very important to choose a container that is at least 10 inches deep. 

When choosing a beet pot, make sure it has drainage holes and is deep enough for normal root growth. You must consider the successful growth of beets.

Preparing potting soil:

Beets can adapt to any type of soil but you prefer the better which is provided with rich in nutrients, well-drained, loose, and aerated soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.

Beetroots are heavy feeders, therefore the initial potting soil of the plant needed with high nutrients and also the addition of some amount of soil amendment during the growing period such as compost and organic amendments that are the smart idea. 

Also Read: Turnip Farming Information Guide

Location to Plant Beet:

Beets needed full sun and cold temperature to flourish. When the temperature increases the best way to cool the soil is the addition of a deep layer of mulch to the soil.

Hence, be sure about the plants receive full sunlight every day it will produce the best beet taste and which permits them to grow with their potential.

Planting Beets in the Container:

Prepare the Beet Container:

At the bottom of the empty container place the layer of small rocks which serves as the adequate soil drainage barrier. Make sure about the soil does not become waterlogged.

Filling the Potting Soil:

Fill the container with potting soil and if you want to remove any small pebbles, and gravels in the soil.

Pre-soak the Seed Overnight:

Usually, the beetroot seeds have a hard seed coat. Therefore, it requires much time to germinate. To speed up the germination process you have pre-soaked the seeds overnight in water. It will help to soften the seed’s hard coat. Then it allows the seeds to sprout fast.

Start Planting:

When sowing seeds, start at a medium depth in the container. You can sow radish seeds in any direction for a full harvest. Make sure there is at least an inch between the edge of the bowl and the beets. 

Cover and Water the Seeds:

Sow the seeds well and cover the pot to keep the soil moist. After a few weeks, the beets will sprout.

Thinning of Seedlings: 

When most of the seeds begin to sprout, trim the seedlings thinly to leave enough space about 3 inches apart. 

Seedlings can be cut off the base of unnecessary seedlings with scissors or gently pulled out with your hands, but when pulling out, you need to be careful not to damage the remaining healthy beets.

Water the Plants Enough:

Now that the beets are laid, most of your task will be to water them as the plants grow. 

You must keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. Waterlogging can lead to the rotting of the beets. 

Water the beets every other day in outdoor containers. Always try to cultivate the soil as best you can to determine if the plant needs water.

Adding Fertilizers:

It is essential to add fertilizers to your plant after a month and be sure about the instructions on the back of your fertilizer bag should be followed and get ready for one-time application.

This will increase sugar beet production and ensure a quality harvest. 

Radishes quickly consume nutrients from the soil, so you need to fertilize them once during their growth. 

Compost containing NPK equivalent or homemade compost is sufficient to provide the necessary nutrients.

Also Read: Why Are My Radishes Growing Above Ground 

Proper Care for Growing Beets:

  • Beets love bright sunshine, but they don’t like hot weather or dry conditions, so consider your climate when growing beets. 
  • Adding a deep layer of mulch to cool the soil is ideal when temperatures are too high.
  •  Water the plant to keep the beets soft and prevents discoloration. 
  • Use row cover to avoid problems such as pests and leaf diggers. 
  • Keep the plant organized by removing damaged leaves as it grows. 
  • Beets grow in nutrient-rich soil without additional fertilization. They produce larger leaves but smaller roots.

Harvesting the Beets:

  • Most growers harvest beets once they are concerning an inch in diameter for delicious flavor, however no more than 2½ inches in diameter. 
  • Beets tend to become woody if left in the ground for too long.
  •  Dig the trench to see the beets are large enough to use. 
  • Hold the stem firmly to prevent bleeding that can get the plant wet when harvesting beets.
  •  In addition, just before severe frosts is the ideal time for harvesting. Store freshly harvested plants in a cool, dry place.

How to Grow Sweet Potatoes?

Sweet potatoes have nothing to do with ordinary potatoes. Orange-fleshed sweet potatoes are the most well-known, but sweet potatoes can be white, yellow, or even purple. Sweet potatoes grow slowly and are always planted in spring because they require four months of high temperature to develop.

The tuber is fully grown, but it grows surprisingly easily. Because the roots of vines touch the ground, some plants can produce large amounts of crops. There are also various shrubs in the small garden.

How to planting sweet potatoes?

Sweet potatoes can be grown in poor soil but deformed roots are develops in heavy clay or long or stringy in sandy dirt. For producing 8 to 10 pounds of potatoes in a single 10 foot row create a perfect environment of about  long , wide,10-inch-high ridges spaced 3 ½ feet apart.

Avoid nitrogen rich fertilizer can produce stunted tubes and lush vines and add plenty of compost to sweet potato field. In north, with the help of black plastics covered the rows of sweet potatoes to keep soil warm and promote strong growth.

It is better to plant root sprouts, known as slips, available in nurseries. Store few roots from your crop for the next year.

Nearly six weeks about to plant sweet potatoes outdoors in your area. Keep the roots in a container with moist sand, saw dust and chopped leaves in a warm spot. Planted sweet potatoes reach 6 to 9 inches long, cut their root. From each slip remove bottom inch and throw away because sometimes that portion harbours disease organisms.

Sweet potatoes extremely frost sensitive and mature in 90 to 170 days. Plant them in full sun after the last frost when the soil has warmed. For planting make the deep hole of 6 inches and 12 inches apart. Conceal all the slips up to top leaves and press the soil down tenderly but firmly and water well.

Also Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

How to grow sweet potatoes?

If black plastics are not used, for smooth weeds mulch the vines nearly two week after planting, conserve moisture, and for the root development keep the soil loose. Hardly lift longer vines to place them from rooting at the joints, or they put their energy into forming several undersized tubers at rooted area rather than mellowing the main crop at base of the plant. Otherwise, handle plants to prevent wounds that vulnerable disease spores.

In dry weather conditions, maintain 1 inch of water per week until two week before harvest, then the soil dry out little bit. Don’t overwater them, plants can withstand better in dry spell than rainy ones.

How to avoid pests?

Northern gardeners are not more likely encounter pest problems than gardeners in southern area.

Sweet potato weevils with dark blue head and wings puncture stems and tubers to lay eggs. Growing larvae tunnel and feed on the fresh roots and the adults are attacks on leaves and vines. It also spread foot rot with that enlarge brown to black areas on stems near the soil and at the stem extreme. From then weevils multiply quickly then hard to eliminate, use certified virus resistant slips and practice a four year crop rotation. With household trash throw away destroy infected plants and their roots.

Black rots are a fungal disease which results in circular, dark depression on tubers. Dispose the infected potatoes and cure the undamaged roots from the same crop cautiously. Don’t be confused about this disease which creates round, small, dark spots on tuber surface but doesn’t change eating quality and taste.

Reduce the chance of disease by planting healthy slips and avoid dark black spot stem rot by planting resistant cultivator and keep the fresh roots between 55 to 60 degree.

Also Read: How to Grow Organic Potatoes in Your Garden

Harvesting sweet potatoes

Sweet potato tubers can be harvested in about three to four months, depending on the variety; if you prefer to eat the leaves as vegetables, you can eat them in moderation throughout the season; remember to allow enough time to grow plants.

Once the leaves turn yellow, the tubers can be dug out. If the frost hits the leaves, then the tubers are probably fine. Just don’t let them sit on the ground too long after the tips are dry, or they may start to work. Rotting is careful when digging sweet potato tubers near the surface. Their skin is delicate and easily damaged or scratched.

Propagation sweet potatoes

  • During winter seasons you can save tubers and plant them in spring with these below steps.
  • Before the first frost fall dig up the tubers.
  • Store them in a peat, vermiculite or other dry material over the winter.
  • Place them in a cool, dry place without light.
  • During spring the tubers will start to sprout. Cut them into pieces as each piece has at least one eye.
  • After the threat of frost passed away plant them in the garden and maintain the temperature at least 60 degree Fahrenheit.

Don’t interchange sweet potatoes for regular potatoes they two are not related. To get more flavour from these sweet potatoes extend their shelf life, place them in a warm and dry place for about 10 to 15 days before eating.

8 Surprising Sugar Uses in the Garden You Don’t Believe Are Possible

Are you shocked or not? Sugar can also used for gardening! We have recited 8 common ways to use sugar in garden.

Most people do not know that sugar has amazing benefits and their effective uses in the garden. You can use sugar in your garden in several ways and it is efficient and beneficial. Therefore, from this post, we will learn 8 surprising sugar uses in garden that you should definitely try this. Move ahead scroll down and learn about them.

Uses of Sugar in the Garden

1. Use sugar to clean dirty hands

Probably it’s the best choice to use sugar for hand wash to clean hands after gardening. You know that sugar is one of the natural solutions which can easily clean your hands. You also used it for face wash.

For cleaning use 1 table spoon of sugar and little water then wash the face or hands as normal. This works better for cleaning soiled, greasy and oily hands.

Also Read: How To Plant Sugarcane – A Complete Beginner’s Guide

2. Make cut flowers last longer

With the addition of sugar in the vase can increase the endurance of cut flowers. Simply mix a tablespoon of sugar in the vase of water and all done. Sugar rejuvenates the blossoms and helps them to live longer, hence the solution can produce bacterial growth and water smells bad and negatively impacts the cut flower. To prevent this frequently add a tablespoon of vinegar to it.

Also Read: How to Germinate Chilli Seeds

3. Natural trap for pests

House flies and fruit flies can make a several problems in home and garden. If you are fighting with them in garden, so try this sugar fly trap. This solution works well for those who are attracted for sweet things. To make this solution, boil ¼ cup of sugar, ¼ cup of honey, 2 tablespoons of water in a pan over low heat as far as sugar dissolved. Dip the pieces of brown packaging paper in the mixture and hang them.

4. Get rid of nematodes

If the plants are wilting and dying for no reason in your garden, then check out their roots for knots which are caused by nematode feeding. If you use sugar it encourages the activity of bacteria and micro organism that can create hostile environment for the nematodes. To prevent nematodes you can also grow marigold.

To get rid of it sprinkles 5 pounds of sugar for every 250 square feet of garden.

Also Read: How Long Does Sugarcane Take To Grow

5. Grass stain remover

If you got grass stains on your cloth after working in garden. They can be challenging task for removing those stains, but if you have a sugar and the water you don’t worry about them.

Take ½ cup of sugar in a bowl and add warm water to it for making paste. Apply this paste on the stain and soak it for ½ an hour then wash it normally.

6. Ant Killer

If you want relieve from ants try this recipe to get rid of it. Combine 1 cup of sugar and 2 tablespoons of borax powder and pour it in a 2 cup of warm water. Soak cotton balls in this solution and keep them in areas where ants are. So they will surely get these balls because they love sugar and then borax will kill them.

7. Feed the butterflies, bees, and hummingbird

If you found any bee or other nectar feeding creature? You can feed a clean solution of sugar water to help them. In a saucepan 1 cup of boiled water, ¼ cup of sugar stirs it in water until dissolved. Cut the sponges into smaller rectangle shaped and make small hole in sponge.

Cut the 7 inch thread through sponge. Dive the sponge into the solution until fully sucked, allow excess to drip from the sponge then hang it to arms or wings or anywhere else for your winged friends. From this pollination will occur.

8. Feed Plants

If you want to give extra nutrients to your plants with the solution of vinegar, sugar and water. First, combine 1 tablespoon of vinegar and 1 tablespoon of sugar for every 8 ounce of water in container. Then apply of feed it to your plant as they needed!

Also Read: What Happens If You Use Vinegar in Your Garden: 19 Miracles of Vinegar

These are the most surprising sugar uses in gardens. These uses will help you to have a better and more beneficial gardening experience. Don’t pause to try them then you will be impressed by the results.

9 Incredible Plants You Can Easily Grow in Water

I have done a too many mistakes killing precious greens because of overwatering, so consider growing plants directly in water.

Growing in water means there is no watering the plants for every next day and no messy soil for it. Don’t need any hydroponic systems for these plants, your never feel guilty about drowning them. 

  Does it make sound really good to you? Hence, let’s start!


  • Firstly take a plant you want to grow in water
  • After that take a cutting from the existing plant.
  • Then choose a glass vessel or jar with thinner neck for plant support
  • Keep it in a room with bright and indirect light. at that site the temperature does not change too often, but slightly warm
  • At last wait for your plant to grow.

1. Philodendron

Philodendrons are low maintenance plant. It can grow quickly in a tap of water in a jar, it tolerate bright and low light. It can give a more natural and inviting atmosphere with their lush and trailing leaves. If you are see it grown in a pot of soil, usually it can be flourish beautifully in water.

From the existing plant cut off about six inches to propagate philodendron. Afterwards place the cutting in a glass of water and wait for ten days then you will observe roots starting to form.

Also Read: 10 Houseplants That Will Thrive in Your Kitchen

2. Spider plant

The spider plant is the best plant in water propagation because it is easy to care without soil. You can easily plant it snip off its spiderettes and root them in water to create new one.

It’s my personal favorite because it give me less stress due to its highly adaptable in nature. It can tolerate lot of misuses, it was excellent for them those who are thinking about they are not blessed by green thumb.

Its sounds may frightened, but believe me spider plant do not have poison glands. It named as due to spiderettes or the spider like plants hanging down from its mother plant. 

3. Wandering Jew

Wandering Jew is a zebra stripped variety and bright purple leaves. It will add some life to the room or else add some color to your garden. If you are allergic to pollen from flowers then wandering Jew is good for you.

It can adapt to houseplant life, if you thrive in a room with moderate light. Stat to cut wandering Jew stem to grow in water. If you are cutting about six inches is easier to grow than smaller one. Place the cutted plant in a glass or clear jar with water as like the leaves should be out of the water to avoid rotting.

I recommend you to use glass or a clear jar it always fascinate to see the roots growing under water.

4. Lucky bamboo

Bamboo plants appear in offices, homes, or on desks. It will bring good luck and fortune in your home or office with this houseplant. Lucky bamboo has standing for being virtually immortal. It can survive in a vase full of water and board range of light conditions with its tough stalks. Hence, avoid direct sunlight while it scorches the leaves. If you notice that the green color is fading, it’s better to provide more light on it.

5. Fiddle leaf fig

The fiddle leaf is one of the incredible indoor plant with featuring large, violin shaped leaves. It commonly thrives in warm and wet conditions. It is super easy to grow this plant in water. Propagating in water just after four weeks you will notice roots are appears on cutting stem base. Hence, couple of more weeks you will observe roots growing in water. In a few times you will get a tons of fiddle leaf figs, you can sell for a good price or even share with your friends.

6. Pothos (Devil’s Ivy)

Pothos is an incredible houseplant which can improve indoor air quality, it can be done by removing of carbon dioxide and other contaminants from air around it and provide supplemental oxygen. It sounds really cool right? I know it have an impressive fact that its ability to withstand quite a bit of neglect.

Hence, growing pothos in water can be little bit tricky because of algae build-up. It became natural results of water and sunlight. If you use dark colored vase to minimize sunlight, it can also reduce algae buildup. You can prevent all sorts of problems with enough care and enjoy a healthy, luscious plant.

7. Chinese evergreen

Have you observed plastic Chinese evergreen plant in stores or in some people homes? I know I have.

After this plant they are actually modeled fake houseplant. If you are really exaggerated to grow Chinese evergreen plant, it is relatively easy to grow in water. Cut the six inches of existing Chinese evergreen plant and keep them in a vase filled with water. Be sure about the cutting is long enough is submerged under water and few leaves are above the water line.

Remember that indirect sunlight requires growing the plant in water. So it’s good to keep the container on a window sill. Wait for few weeks and then you will observe the roots come under the submerged parts of the stem.

Also Read: 7 Houseplants that Reduce Dust and Particulate Matter  

8. African violet

If you want to grow the plants in water from leaves is a best way to start with new African violet plants. It is good to choose healthy, young leaves cut with about two inches of the stem. Keep them to dry and after a month roots are begin to form on the stem.

9. Baby’s tears

Baby tears are a low growing plant featuring with a mass like appearance with stem that can be quite chubby. It can produce a myriad of small round leaves, create a opaque trailing mat. When adorned decoratively over the edge of the vase it works well with its spreading and creeping forms. Once you keep it in a jar for growing it does not require a lot of horizontal space, it will glow like a heavy head of green hair.

You have to change the water once a week. Although, remove the leaves that are floating in a water, which are start to rot.


If you are not having enough space or garden in your backyard or hate the messy soil in houseplant is not be the reason for not having greenery at your home. You don’t be afraid about drowning them because they need sunlight and water to survive.

 Plants’ growing in water is not only convenient and easy, but it brings lots of benefits to your daily living.

8 Edible Flowers You Should Grow In Your Vegetable Garden

Here you’re introducing flowers to a vegetable garden which comes with perks and the addition of beauty. Usage of flowers in a companion planting, which helps to deter pests and attracts pollinators. Interplantation will also save time and space if you grow many plants in one place.

Without companion benefits, the vegetable garden is more likely to plant flowers that are intended for cuttings. If you’re cut them as you select the vegetables for dinner. Here are the few edible flowers that can be grown in your vegetable garden.

1. Pot marigold calendula officinalis

Calendula or pot marigold is not a family related to the marigold of genus tagetes. It is considered an edible flower and has a bitter flavor. It has an orange color which livens up a plate. In the garden, it repels few pests such as tomato hornworm, and asparagus beetles but attracts a few of them including aphids.

You can use it as a trap crop placing it on another side of the vegetable garden away from the plants that can often attack like peas.

It can be grown in the US development zone from 9 to 11. It has distinct colors such as orange, yellow, pink, and cream. It can face the full sun to part shade. To improve the growth of this flower the potting soil should be rich in nutrients, slightly acidic to neutral, and well-drained.

Also Read: 9 Incredible Plants You Can Easily Grow in Water

2. Cosmos

Few flowers grow as easily and as much as the cosmos flower. And these flowers can be planted in the garden because they attract many beneficial insects. For example, if you want to paint the scarabs green, choose a bright white or orange, such as Space Orange. 

Green beetles are voracious, eating all kinds of soft-bodied insects, including aphids, scales, and thrips, so they are considered beneficial insects and make them their home in their garden, which will help to prevent pest problems. It has distinct colors such as pink, yellow, purple, red, and white. It is exposed to full sun with moderate moisture and well-drained soil.

3. Lavender

Lavender flower is difficult to grow from seeds, so buy from the nearest garden center or cut from the growing plant. it loves cool winters and hot dry summers. Several varieties are hardy in zone 5-9 check out your specific variety and it likes well-drained soil and lots of suns. It has a distinct taste like rosemary/mint combo flavor and like all herbs blooms edible. Truthfully, lavender has so many uses at home. 

4. Nasturtium

Nasturtium is one of the best edible flowers that will grow in the container. It has upright varieties with distinct colors like a sunset (think oranges, reds, and yellows).

Its seedlings are planted in the warm soil in the spring. Darkness is required for germination so start them indoors. Once the seedlings are sprouted and are ready to transplant outdoor then place at full sun location. In zone 4-8 treated as annuals and in 9-11 treated as hardy and it cannot survive in freezing temperature. 

The whole parts of the plant are edible: petals, leaves, and seeds. The flavor of each part is distinct such as leaves are spicy, flowers are sweeter. I use the nasturtium-infused vinegar for salads and dipping bread for making sweets.

5. Sunflower

It is the best flower for the vegetable garden and it makes trellises for climbing plants that have a lot of nectar to attract pollinators.

Ultimately, it has a problem with squirrels because they attract growing seeds but you have to save seeds. Plant the coarse-leaved vegetable squash near the sunflowers can make to deter animals. It is an annual plant with different colors yellow, red, burgundy and chocolate. It is exposed to full sun in well-drained and moist soil.  

6. Sweet pea

Sweet pea seeds are poisonous for humans but few creatures find them delicious. If you find difficulty when placing them in your flower garden, plant them in a vegetable garden for protection is an alternative. 

Growing sweet peas along with pole beans is a trap to squeeze them into the garden to attract more pollinators to your beans. They cannot cross-pollinate with edible peas due to different genera.

It is also an annual plant with various colors such as red, pink, blue, purple, and white and it is exposed to full sun with medium moisture and well-drained soil. 

Also Read: 9 Best Black Succulents those are Incredibly Beautiful

7. Zinnia

It is also an annual plant with distinct varieties red, pink, yellow, orange, lilac, purple, green, and white. It is exposed to full sun in the well-drained soil.

Planting zinnia plant in the vegetable garden which allows using them for the filling gaps between the vegetable garden because 

Nectar is rich in zinnia flower which acts as a magnet for the bees, popular with the hummingbird and other pollinators.

Pale, pastel varieties appear attractive to Japanese beetles and can be used as traps. On the other hand, you might not want to plant anything that attracts Japanese beetles unless you already have the problem you are trying to solve.

8. Roses

Rose flower is also edible and it offers a sweet flavor with a slight spice. The leaves are good for making tea similarly tastes like black tea. The rosebuds have to dry and use them in different dishes to the addition of flavor and use petals for salads, infuse in honey and garnish desserts, and so on. 

The flavor of the flower depends upon the type, color, and soil conditions. The heavy darker petals give more flavor but before consuming remove a white portion of the petals.

The rose hips are tasted like zesty crab apple which has full of antioxidants and rich in vitamin C. The rose hips are harvest when it becomes orange or red, not in green, cut them into halves and scrape out the seeds.

While purchasing roses be sure to choose a disease-resistant variety because roses are very disease-prone. Plant the rose in spring and select the location which is well-drained soil and full sun. In warm climatic conditions protect the plant.

13 Things You Can’t Compost | What Not to Compost?

Are you thinking about the things what not to compost in your backyard? You can compost most of things but you have to avoid 13 things you can’t compost. Find below!

Composting is a best way to prepare your own organic fertilizer which allows you to decompose the wastage of your garden and food wastage of your home, otherwise it will be thrown into the trash. Almost you can compost everything that is organic but there are few things that which you cant compost in large extend to avoid hassle. So find out what not to compost?

What not to compost?

1. Weeds

After cleaning the garden it might be tempted to damp the weeds and other unwanted in the bin in the spring. But keeping weeds in the pile, now that will be popping back up in the finished compost later once spread it in your garden.

 In case of your pile gets consistently hot- reaches a minimum of 140 degree Fahrenheit at least 2 weeks. Weed seeds can survive to sprout another day.

And for few invasive plants like as Japanese knotweed, requires only an inch of stem to regret.

It is good to leave them out, especially those weeds that are begun to flower.

2. Diseased Plants

Plant pathogens such as powdery mildew, black spot, rust, verticillium wilt and mosaic virus can survive the composting process and infect new plants in the next season.

Like weeds, diseased plants in compost need high temperatures to kill bacteria like Fungi, viruses and parasites completely. Even so, not all pathogens can be completely eradicated.

Make better use of its safety and keep it away from the packaging.

Also Read: 10 Houseplants That Will Thrive in Your Kitchen

3. Black Walnut

All parts of Juglans nigra, including branches, leaves, roots, bark, nuts, and shell, contain an organic compound called jugalone.

Jugalone production is an evolutionary characteristic of black walnut, giving it a significant advantage over other nearby plants. Root system inhibits metabolic enzymes and destroys photosynthesis.

 Apples, tomatoes, peppers, berries, asparagus and potatoes are few plants that are particularly sensitive to jugalone.

After being removed from the landscape, the jugalone will remain underground for several years.

Prevent any part of the black walnut from entering the compost pile to avoid contamination by walnut chemicals.

Also Read: 9 Best Black Succulents those are Incredibly Beautiful

4. Treated grass clippings

Excellent supplements to heap that provide nitrogen (cold) or carbon (dry).

Never put grass clippings that have been treated with insecticides, herbicides or other chemicals in the compost.

Treated grass destroys the composting process of harmful microorganisms.

To make matters worse, using finished compost for edible plants increases the toxins in the food stream.

5. Glossy paper products

Magazines, catalogs, spam, newsprint, brochures, food packaging, and glossy business cards should be included keep away from compost.

These materials are treated with a special coating to form a smooth and shiny surface. The coating is usually composed of clay minerals, but can also contain synthetic additives such as polyethylene.

The shiny products added to the pile will not degrade properly and will immerse the plastic chemicals in the finished compost.

If in doubt, please recycle any shiny materials and choose plain paper to add to the stack.

6. Cat and Dog Poop

The manure from herbivores is the best source of nitrogen and perfectly good addition of heap. Carnivores’ animals and pets poop can be strictly kept away. Omnivores can contain harmful pathogens and parasites which are not eliminate while composting. If the finished compost applied around the food plants, it will contaminate the crop which causes health hazards. Dog and cat wastage keep away from the general compost heap.

Without using landfills eager to dispose this free renewable resource, pet waste can be composted when it placed in a pile away from the vegetable patch. Once it will be cheapen, used for non-edible trees, shrubs and plants.

7. Cooking Oils

In heap don’t add cooking oil, grease and fat

Waste oil can attract rodents into open compost piles and can also disrupt the composting process itself.

A large amount of oil leakage forms a watertight barrier around the carbon and nitrogen materials in the stack, preventing water absorption and reducing airflow.

The microorganisms that destroy it need water and oxygen, so soaking a pile with edible oil will only slow down or stop the activity of microorganisms.

However, you can compost very small amounts of vegetable oil. Spilled or leftover vegetable oil should be moistened with a paper towel or newspaper before discarding.

8. Meat

Meat and fish, whether cooked or raw, will attract scavengers when they start to deteriorate. Meat can also be very uncomfortable.

Although the meat is organic and adds valuable nutrients to this pile of meat, budding composers are not allowed to throw it away.

 If you tend to add a small amount of leftover meat, bury it deep in the pile and cover it with more carbon material to avoid odours in the empty pile.

You can also prevent scavenger leakage by using a compost bin with a sealed lid or using a fully insulated system such as bokashi.

Also Read: How to Start a Chicken Farm Business

9. Dairy Products

 Adding a small amount of milk, yogurt, ice cream and cheese is not a big problem, but adding sour or expired dairy products to the entire container will completely change the look, feel and taste of the composting environment.

10. Latex Products

Opinions seem to be divided on whether latex products such as condoms and balloons can be added.

In theory, natural latex is completely biodegradable. Latex is obtained from flowering plants. It is a milky liquid composed of starch, sugars, resins and gums. It will coagulate when it comes in contact with air.

 Balloons and condoms are a problem with composting because they are not 100% rubber. Latex and contains synthetic additives to give the final product tear resistance. Condoms may also contain other additives, such as lubricants and spermicides.

Experiments have shown that backyard balloons can last for several years. Even if you grind the latex product before adding it to the compost, you may inadvertently introduce unnatural elements into the organic compost.

11. Paraffin Wax

 Animal and vegetable waxes such as beeswax and soybean wax can be added to homemade compost. Cut them into small pieces, as they may take a long time to fall apart.

Anything made of paraffin—candles, wax paper, cheese wax, etc.—should not be composted.

Because paraffin is a by-product of fossil fuels. When petroleum, coal or shale oil is refined, a waxy substance is produced. It is separated from the oil with a solvent and distilled.

You really don’t want to pile petrochemical products on your pile, so always throw paraffin-containing products in the trash.

12. Treated and Engineered Wood

The use of sawdust, shavings and chips for processing wood products is prohibited. Treated wood contains chemical preservatives or synthetic binders, which can contaminate soil and food when composted in the garden.

 This includes pressurized wood and construction wood such as plywood, fiber board, particleboard and medium density fiber board. Varnished, stained, or painted wood should not be added to compost.

13. Bio-plastics

As an alternative to typical petrochemical plastics, bio-plastics made from plant materials and other renewable biomass materials are processed.

 In the past decade, bio-plastics have become more common and can take many forms, from thin and flexible bio bags, envelopes, food packaging, etc., to rigid applications such as tableware, straws, water bottles and containers Packaging materials.

Bio-plastics must be compostable on paper, because they are processed from plants.

Large-scale systems can generate high temperatures for a long time, and at the same time have a perfectly balanced moisture and oxygen environment: for example, compared with traditional plastics, bio-plastics thrown into the sea take decades to decompose!

Unless bio-plastics are specifically designed and labelled for home composting, don’t pile them in a pile.

How to Grow: Snake Gourd Farming?

As the name sounds a bit weird, the appearance of Snake Gourd is not. The veggie appears to be elongated and wavy like a snake and tastes like a cucumber. It is a creeper plant. Snake Gourd farming rules the South and Asian market.

India Grows it in abundance and exports it to other corners of the world. In, other words, we can say India is a proprietary market for snake gourd farming.

Though it finds a place in Bangladesh, Pakistan, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, China and, Malaysia. It can be consumed in a multifarious way, whether pickled, sauté with herbs, cooked with typical Indian spices, tastes good.

How to grow snake gourd from seed?

The growing pattern throws light on the type of climate required for snake gourd farming. Being enormously grown in a tropical area, the veggie thrives well in the tropical climate. To grow snake gourd from seeds, you need to follow certain steps, for better results.

As it is a creeper veggie it needs a chain, fence, or kind of support to grow on but it has to be built to last. There are a variety of seeds available. We have chalked down a few for you:

  1. White Glory
  2. Baby
  3. Extra Long Dancer

The seeds are hard as coconut shells which hinders the germination process and can even take a month or more to germinate. To cope up with this issue, you need to crack the seeds with the help of pliers ensuring the safety of the endosperm inside.

If the endosperm is hurt or crushed it won’t allow the seed to sprout. Now, to start with the germination process, you need to soak these seeds extracted from the shells for 12 hours at least.

For growing snake gourd from seeds, it should be allowed to rest in warm water resting on the refrigerator top or any other place that is warm enough to let the water get embedded in the seeds.

Then seeds need to be planted in weed mix soil in large flower pots covered with a cling film or plastic wrap. The vision behind is to hold the moisture to allow sprouting. In about 10 days these seeds start sprouting and now it’s time to uncover them and allow some fresh air to reach them. 

Once the germination process gets a swing, a regular water supply should be maintained to ensure moisture. Now, these young seedlings find their wings in the garden.

snake gourd seed germination

After planting them in the garden, 15 days’ is ideal to water them. Or when you find it necessary like the soil is dry, it needs to be nourished immediately. In about three weeks, these seedlings start’s maturing and demand some additional nutrients in the soil to be added.

This acts as a catalyst to shape these beautiful gourd vines. But always remember a strong back should be there to render a stiffen to the 6 feet (approx.) fruit.

To attract the insects a light or fluorescent cloth needs to be placed next to the blooming flowers to speed up the pollination process.

Growing and harvesting period for snake gourd

Due to the new agro technologies, flushing in the market no vegetable is restricted to a particular point of time. Though it is still advisable to grow snake gourd in January and July.

As it needs a temperature of 25 degrees to 38 degrees. The harvest time of snake gourd depends on the variety of seeds sown. On average it takes 45 to 60 days from the time it is sown.

Getting the soil ready for snake gourd farming

Snake gourd farming is a non-fussy task, as it goes with all types of soil. For getting good results it is recommended to use loam sandy soil with a spice of organic content.

A minimum of 3-4 plowing is needed to be done, to get a PH value equal to 6. Snake gourd cultivation demands a good soil drainage system. On adding good manure to the soil, a higher yield is obtained.

Treatment and sowing of seeds

10 grams of fluorescens and 4 grams of viride should be added to the seeds to accelerate the production cycle. This will surely give better and high yields. And snake gourd farming would be more profitable then.

The cropping season of snake gourd is in July and January. Cropping season is just a medium to enhance productivity.

Production techniques of snake gourd

The production techniques of snake gourd is a bit lengthy. Let’s grab a look at the following:

  1. Sowing and spacing pattern: The sowing pattern should be in multiples of 5, that too in a grid-like structure. After 15 days of germination, pick any 2 healthy seedlings. An alternative method can be used, you can sow the seeds in plastic bags until they germinate. Later can be shifted to pits in 4.
  2. Fertilizer and manure: At the time of soil preparation heaps of compost should be mixed in the soil. Then after 30 days of sowing and the rest just before the plowing time.
  3. Water intake for snake gourd farming should be maintained. One a week of watering is good for the plantation.
  4. Weeding is done twice and not more than that.

Types of Snake Gourd

There are different varieties of snake gourd available in the Indian Market. Let’s take a glimpse:

  1. Padwal or pointed gourd
  2. Serpent gourd
  3. Chinese Gourd
  4. Japanese Gourd
  5. Chichinda

Health benefits of snake gourd:

The significant story of this green thumb relates long back to the ayurvedic culture. With an enormous number of highs, this green veggie finds a place in medicine as well.

Even in today’s time as people are becoming aware of health benefits, the snake gourd has made its root in a portion of day-to-day dietary food. Tendrils, the delicate stem part is also used in some of the medicines.

Let’s have an overview of the benefits that can be extracted from this simple vegetable:

  1. Losing Weight:  Being a possessor of an ample amount of nutrients is a complete food. Keeps the stomach full, free from any sort of unwanted cravings. Thereby, vanishing fat from the body.
  2. Supplement to Heart: Cholesterol free food is always a good choice for the better functioning of the heart. Apart from typically cooked in Indian spices, it can be consumed in boiled form or with negligible oil. And yes, it tastes yum. At the same time a relaxing food for the heart muscles.
  3. A Kidney Detox: A snake gourd sweeps out all the toxic material from the excretory system of your body. It triggers the secretion of fluids responsible for the process of excretion in the kidney. Thereby maintaining the water in the body content ensuring proper hydration.
  4. Speed up the digestion process:  Snake gourd is high in fiber quantity, so helps to keep the stomach light and happy. Chances of acidity and bloating are reduced so the process of digestion becomes fast and easy.
  5. Cleans the respiratory tract: Another amazing perk of consuming this veggie is curbing the mucous secretion and clearing the respiratory tracts. This also controls the infections in the lungs.
  6. Ideal for the keto diet: Being low in carbohydrate and sugar content, it can be easily added to the keto diet as well.

Threats to snake gourd farming

The basic enemies of snake gourd farming are leaf beetles, caterpillar, and flies. To demolish leaf beetles and caterpillars you need to apply pesticides to snake gourd production.

For fruit flies, you have to pluck the infected veggies and throw them away from the rest of the production. These are the best possible ways to save the snake gourds.

Snake gourd diseases

Yes, you heard it right. Even plants get affected by diseases, like humans. The 2 major diseases targeting the veggie are Downy mildew and powdery mildew.

These are controllable, the mere spread of pesticides can make you get rid of these diseases. All you have is healthy snake gourd farming.

Also Read: Planting and Growing Okra Step by Step

Planting snake gourd

Snake Gourd is a tropical veggie, it loves a warm climate to grow. Like warmer days and cool nights. For snake gourd farming sandy loam soil ideal. Which has the benefit of keeping the temperature high for a high yield.

Tresilling snake gourd is adapted to grow erect, this can keep this veggie away from pathogens and flies.

Snake gourd is touchy to excess water and could not bear dry soil as well. There needs to a perfect balance between both.

snake gourd plant

Basic tips to stimulate snake gourd production

With an increasing urge to compete with one another, farmers face a low yield problem with snake gourd farming.

To boost production, we have thrown light on the following tips:

  1. A perfect base fertilizer: To make a perfect fertilizer base cow dung in powdered form or an organic fertilizer should be added to the soil to trigger production rate.
  2. Quality of seeds: To get good results, hybrid or local seeds should be used. Either they can be allowed to soak in water for 6 hours or sowed in cow dung.
  3. Water passage: Choose a place that ensures a continuous and proper water supply. To prevent seeds from drying.
  4. Saplings should be healthy to ensure a good production rate.
  5. As soon as the seeds begin to sprout, the additional underneath growth should be copped off to instigate high yield.

The market for snake gourd farming

With an increase in awareness among the people, the demand for snake gourd has also risen. People tend to switch their eating habits to a healthy delight. This has resulted in huge demand for snake gourd farming.

The farmers are growing this veggie on a large scale as it is low in investment. No extra care is demanded just proper management can work wonders. Being a less perishable item, it can be transported easily.


The ending note on snake gourd farming is a bag full of knowledge. Infused with lots of health and nutritional benefits this simple veggie is a good deal for your family. 

With tips on how to grow snake gourd, types of snake gourd, how to increase production, and the prolonged benefits of the vegetable we have penned down all the relevant and required information regarding snake gourd farming.

 We hope, the article was informative. So, go ahead with your snake gourd farming. Do share your experience of snake gourd farming with us. Stay connected for more updates.

How to: Onion Farming – An Ultimate Guide

Onion is one of the popular vegetables for most people worldwide. Growing onions is productive and straightforward. Investment needed for commercially producing onions is very limited, and onion plant treatment is also shallow.

So, we’re studying top onion growing methods, tricks, and ideas today. Usually, onions are cultivated early in the summer and harvested after their tops start to die off. Few onion varieties can be planted in fall in the southern US. At the end of this guide, you would be able to know about “How to plant onion?”, “How onion grow?”, the ways to onion cultivation, and so on.

Onion varieties origin:


For centuries, insects such as bees and flies have developed onion (Allium cepa L.) seed by random crossing between plants. This open pollination (OP) results in every onion plant being genetically isolated from many other crops in the environment.

This high degree of genetic variability results in non-uniformity for essential characteristics like maturities, disease tolerance, bulb shapes, etc. Throughout the mid-20th century, breeders began self-pollinating onions to create more scientifically uniform inbred rows.

These inbred onions were less intense and yielded less than their initial OP populations. Fortunately, the natural crossing of two inbred lines for hybrid onion will restore vigor.

Onion hybrids are much more uniform for desirable characteristics, produce consistently higher yields than OP varieties, and comprise 90-95% of US production. Also, classical plant breeding enhanced both hybrid and OP onions.

Also Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

How Onions Grow– seed or sets!

We suggest using onion sets that can be planted without thinking about frost damage and are more effective than growing from onion seeds or transplantation. Onion sets are tiny bulbs marketed exclusively for planting.

After around 3-1⁄2 months, they mature into a full-size bulb. Onion plants grow well in elevated beds or rows at least 4 inches wide. If you’d instead start growing onions from seeds, check our tips on increasing indoor onions.

How Onion Grow: Plantation of onions

You might have several questions on your mind. For example, when to plant the onion?How to prepare the plantation site? Etc. So, let’s begin with the answer to the first question. 

How to plant onions and when?

Typically, when the weather is pleasant, plant onion sets outdoors — not cold. Ideally, after planting outdoor temperatures shouldn’t drop to 28 ° F (-2 ° C). Grow onions in regions with a frigid winter as soon as the field can be worked in spring — probably late March or April. In milder climates, late fall or winter will help in onion plantation.

They’ll remain dormant throughout the cold season, but they’ll be able to develop as soon as the longer, milder spring days start.

Continue planting them indoors around six weeks before you intend to move them to the ground. Onion seeds require at least 50 ° F (10 ° C) to sprout correctly. So, you must have now got the idea about how to plant onions and when.

How to prepare for the plantation site?

It’s not a tough job to prepare for the plantation site. You just need to consider a few things before starting right away. Look at those factors below. 

  • Find a full-sun location so that individual plants won’t cover your onions.
  • The soil must be well-drained, soft, and nitrogen-rich; compacted, rough, or clay-heavy soil influences bulb growth.
  • Add in any nitrogen fertilizer while planting.
  • Conduct onion seed rotation. In other words, don’t grow them at the same place year after year because this will promote disease distribution that affects the seed.
  • Attach aged manure or compost in early spring, until planting. Onion plants are fast feeders, needing continuous nourishment to grow big bulbs.

More on how to plant onions

As they develop much quicker (and less total work), we consider increasing onions through onion sets (i.e., tiny onion bulbs) rather than seeds.

However, seeds are also an alternative in moderate, long growing season regions. If seed planting, note that onions plants live for a short period, so start increasing the year with fresh seeds.

Start seeds within around six weeks until transplanting into the field. If planting onion sets, place them 2 to 6 inches apart and don’t hide them farther than 1 inch under the dirt. When transplanting into the field, place plants 4-5 inches apart in rows 12-18 inches apart.

How onion grows – Should you plant a sprouted onion?

Yeah, you can grow a germinated onion, but you will get fewer onions. You’ll get plenty of yellow sprouts, too! 


  • Fill a bowl with potting soil and create a middle hole around the onion’s depth and distance.
  • Next, you can place the onion in the hole, and then you need to cover it. 
  • You now need to water the onion and keep it on the sunny spot.
  • Your green sprouts are now ready for cooking, wait. You need to harvest it first!

Note: If you have a flower sprout, wait before the crop dies. Keep seeds for spring planting.

Caring for the onion plants:

Firstly, you need to consider onions a leaf flower, not a root flower. And then, you need to fertilize nitrogen every few weeks for large bulbs.

But you should stop feeding when the onions drive away from the soil and start the bulbing cycle. In addition to that, don’t bring the ground around the onions; the bulb will rise above the land.

And one more thing, generally, by utilizing mulch, onion plants don’t require regular irrigation. About one-inch water every week (including rainwater) is plenty. For sweeter onions, add more.

Getting rid of pests/diseases – Onion cultivation

Before you learn to do away with onion plant pests/diseases, you first need to know about a few pests/conditions that are its foe. 


Take in the garden a dark piece of paper to monitor thrips — tiny insects about as thick as the sewing needle — and knock on it with their onion tops; if thrips are present, you can see their tangy bodies on the paper.

Any insecticide soap treatments destroy them. Follow packaging rules. Sprinkle the plants twice, and the thrips will vanish.

Onion maggots

Cover with a fine mesh your growing onion crop. Seal it around the edges by shifting dirt. The onion maggot likes to place its eggs on the plant’s base, which is stopped by the netting.

You should also keep mulch off because insects like organic matter to rot and make sure that you collect your onions thoroughly as the season progresses. In stormy times onion maggots are usually a concern, so such measures may be unnecessary when you have a dry season.

From Onion harvest to the storage of onion plants

Now is the time to explore the details about how to harvest and store onion plants. This step is pretty much crucial since it’s the time to reap whatever you have sown with your hard work. So, let’s first begin with the onion harvesting part.

Irrigation needs for onion farming

Irrigation is needed at the time of clove transplantation / dibbling, and moderate watering must be performed on the third day after plantation and subsequent irrigation at 7-10 days intervals depending on soil condition and season. Immediately after planting, water transplants.

Due to the shallow root system, onions need regular furrow irrigation. Stop overhead irrigation causing plant diseases. If the foliage is harmful, yellowish, the plants are over-irrigated. The soil would be too dry around an under-watered crop and broken.

Onions typically need 30′′ irrigation during a growing season, and the closer to onion harvest, the higher the need for water. If the onion doesn’t get enough sunlight, it won’t make a large bulb. When the necks begin to fall, and the onions mature, watering should be stopped, allowing the soil to dry.

Must Read: Pumpkin farming: how to plant, grow, and harvest pumpkins correctly and properly

Micro-irrigation of onion crop

Through drip and sprinklers, irrigation will happen once every three days. A drip machine operating pressure should be 1.5kg / cm2 and 2.5kg / cm2 for the rotary micro-sprinkler. Using nitrogen fertilizers should be achieved by a trickle. Apply 50 percent N as a primal dose and the remaining 50 percent N for seven splits (10 days period up to 70 days after transplantation) via the drip irrigation system.

How to plant Onion: Crop rotation

Practical and optimum use of all the applied soil mineral nutrients is impossible. Available nutrients leach and settle in the sub-soil.

Over the next planting season, planting leguminous crops will ensure utilizing these nutrients. Thus, the cultivation sequence of onions and legumes is recommended to preserve soil quality, optimum nutrient usage, and higher yield.

How to harvest onions?

  • Pull some onions sending flower stalks; if you see the flower stalk, it means that the onions have stopped growing. Such onions are not well processed but can be used in a few days.
  • When onions start maturing, the heads (foliage) turn yellow and start falling over. Bend the tops at that stage or even stump them to speed up the final maturation process.
  • You need to loosen the soil around the bulbs to encourage drying.
  • Are you observing the brown tops? Great.It’s an excellent time to pull the onions.
  • And lastly, ensure that you harvest only in late summer before the weather gets cold. Since mature onions may get spoiled in fall weather.

Harvest onions: Pre and post-harvesting

In addition to the doses of fertilizers as recommended, the crop is watered in rolls of 6-12 days, based on local conditions. Be vigilant about watering turns, such that the plant may not suffer from water tension. When the onion bulb matures below level, the long upper leaves become yellowish and begin to fall off, meaning the crop is now ready for harvest.

When the roots at the bulb’s bottom are dry, they lose their grip on the earth. The stage’s called “neck-breaking.” When 75% of the crop has reached this point, harvesting begins. The pulled-out bulbs are permitted to stay in the field for 4-5 days, which in turn dries up and thickens outer layers, increasing storage life.

Storing the onions

  • Clip the roots and cut the tops up to 1 inch (but if you intend to braid the onions, leave the heads on).
  • Let the onions recover for a few days, depending on the weather. Often treat them very carefully — the slightest bruise can promote spoilage.
  • Enable onions to dry for a few weeks before stocking in a root cellar or any other storage area. You also need to spread them out on a full screen, which should be off the ground to dry.
  • You need to store it at 40 to 50°F while removing its stems in a mesh bag.
  • You should not store apple or pear onions together, as the fruit-producing ethylene gas can disrupt the germination of the onions. On the other hand, onions can also ruin these fruits’ flavor.

Marketing of onion

Onions can be classified into three marketable categories: spring (“green”), summer-fresh market onions, and fall/winter onions (“dry bulb”). Fresh or green onions are pulled while the tops are still green, usually before a large bulb has grown. Small, light-colored skin may recognize fresh market onions and have edible green tops.

While the new onion market was accounting for the most significant proportion of onion use, other markets also account for substantial production. Most canning and freezing onions come from new market varieties, while dehydrated products use separate types with a higher solids content


So, it was all about the onion farming. We have tried to answer all your questions related to this topic. Whether it be plantation to harvesting and everything in between, we hope you can now kickstart farming practices.