Author: Maryem

Livestock farming

Rabbit farming: How to Start Raising Rabbits

Author ByMaryem

Rabbits are an amazingly quick breeding source. They are low in fat and so easy to maintain. Until the 1960s, rabbits were very popular in the U.S. but as time passed beef gained popularity. Despite the fact, Rabbit farming is being performed in various parts of the world, and increasing every year. In 2012, approximately 853000 rabbits were sold by 5000 farms. 

The fine-grain meat of rabbits is used as an alternative to chicken in various recipes. Along with meat, rabbits are also raised for their fur, skin or hide, angora wool, breeding stock, or medicational and educational laboratory use. They are also commonly kept as pets or animals by people. 

Mostly for rabbit farming for meat, types used are new Zealand whites or Californians. Different breeds of rabbits are Dark Gray, Fox, Dutch, Red Belgium White, and Chinchilla. Your choice of rabbit for commercial use can vary with the availability of breeding in your area. 

Varieties of rabbits that are most commonly used in rabbit farming are- 

  • Palomino- this rabbit breed is very attractive and has a pale orange colored body. It weighs around 2-12 pounds. These rabbits are very quiet, calm, and less problematic. They can be easily raised in dense urban areas. 
  • Champagne D’Argent- This is a heritage breed and is present from around the 17th century. This domestic breed is not quite common in today’s time. Their black fur can be used for commercial purposes. The meat of this breed is also consumed. 
  • Flemish giant- flemish giants grow nearly 20 pounds in weight. It is used for meat and fur. This breed is mostly docile.
  • Chinchilla- chinchilla rabbits are stocky, fluffy, and look good. They can grow up to 12 pounds. They are reared for meat and make good livestock.
  •  New Zealand- although the name suggests that the breed originated from new Zealand but this is not correct. It originated in the USA and has traced its way to New Zealand. These breeds are best for meat production. They come in 5 different colors- white, black, blue, red, and multicolored. They have characteristic flesh of pinkish color. They are so delicious to eat. 

How to start rabbit farming?

Starting rabbit farming as a business is not difficult. It is considered the most profitable farming among others. This business is an amazing source of income and employment. Even people who are not much aware of it or beginners can easily get into it and start earning. It just requires a proper business plan and you are ready to begin. 

Rabbits can be easily kept in small spaces and they require less food. You do not need to spend much money on food for rabbits. Even grass can do wonders for them. Grass or hay is the main component of a rabbit’s diet and it is easily affordable. 

Rabbit’s meat contains a high amount of protein, energy, calcium, and healthy vitamins. Plus, cholesterol, fats, and sodium are present in very few amounts in rabbit meat. Moreover, it is tasty and easily digestible too. Therefore, the consumption of meat is quite popular. Further, rabbit farming is becoming popular to produce rabbit meat that is suitable for human consumption. 

Rabbits give birth to 2-8 kids at one time. They can consume low-quality food and raise high-quality meat, skin, and fur too. 

Rabbit farming includes a basic question,  how to raise rabbits? So, raising rabbits includes taking care of their housing, food, breeding. These points are explained below- 

Rabbit farming method-

            There are two methods of rabbit farming- 

  • Deep litter method- this method goes well for small businesses. Few rabbits can be easily maintained in this way. The floor must be made of concrete to avoid diseases and for additional benefits. Then cover the ground with a 5cm thick layer of deep litter husk and hay and straw. Male and female rabbits should be placed separately. 

You can maintain around 30 rabbits in one house. However, diseases can spread more easily in this farming method. 

  • Cage farming- this method is considered best for rabbit farming. It involves the usage of wire mesh or iron plates to build cages for rabbits. It can very easily accommodate high numbers of rabbits in it. Keep male and female rabbits in different cages. However, in the breeding season, you can keep them in the same cage. Cages have sufficient space for rabbits to live freely. 
  • Feeding rabbits

Rabbit’s ages and breeds decide the consumption of food and the requirement of nutrition. Proper nutrition requirement for an adult rabbit is as follows- 

  • Food with 17-18% of the crude protein present in it.
  • Fiber content should be around 14%
  • Mineral content must be around 7%
  • Metabolic energy should be around 2700kg.

They require very huge amounts of grass or hay for daily consumption. Along with it, add vegetables and fruits to their daily diet for providing proper minerals and vitamins. Common foods consumed by rabbits are green vegetables, plants, spinach, carrots, green grass. Green leafy vegetables, cucumbers, and much more. Clean and fresh water is a necessity for rabbits. 

Breeding

Rabbits get mature enough to breed when they become 5-6 months old. But males should not be allowed to breed unless they become 1 year old. You can use rabbits that look healthy and have proper body weight. Avoid using ill rabbits for breeding. 

Special care should be taken of males and females that are going to be used for breeding. Also, pregnant females can be placed separately and should be looked after well. The gestation period of female rabbits is 28-31 days.

Must Read: Must-haves Before Embarking On Goat Farming

Care and Marketing

Good care must be taken for the production of healthy and happy rabbits. Monitor their health carefully and regularly. If one gets ill, chances are it can destroy and infect every rabbit near it. 

When you start rabbit farming, try making contacts with local markets for the future. It can be a little difficult to find buyers. So, check out the need and demand before starting, 

What do wild rabbits eat?

Wild rabbits mainly consume green plants or green grass. As the nutritional value of grass is very low so they need to consume in high amounts to fulfill their needs. 

They have evolved to consume high amounts of grass daily without any problem. 

In summers, they generally consume flowers and green plants. Rabbits strictly avoid meat or any other animal for eating purposes. They are herbivores. Clover leaves, grasses, shrubs, leafy weeds can be eaten by rabbits. Grass acts as good roughage and is good for their sensitive digestive systems. 

They avoid high nitrogen foods. 

The Diet of wild rabbits and pet rabbits is almost similar. However, along with grass pet rabbits also consume 

What to feed baby rabbits?

The diet of baby rabbits must be proper and well suited for their body. The digestive system of rabbits is very sensitive so it must be taken care of. Providing a correct diet in the early stages helps in supporting growth in animals and establishing good eating habits. 

Just as other mammals, these babies also are fed milk in the beginning times. They are fed on milk for 6-8 weeks. Once they grow up to 2-3 weeks of age, start providing them mild solids too. 

When they grow 6 weeks old, their digestive system can start adjusting to solids from milk. 

Baby rabbits should be kept with their mothers for 8 weeks at least to ensure good health for them.

Rabbit diet must be consistent. Changes in diet can be harmful to a baby rabbit gut. 

Diet is almost similar to adult rabbits. You can feed them hey, dry pellets and fresh vegetables and fruits. Also, alfalfa can be fed to baby rabbits. Keep food high in fiber for the good functioning of the gut. 

What vegetables can rabbits eat?

Rabbits require to consume a balanced diet that includes grass, vegetables, fresh water, hay, fruits, and few pellets. 

The transition from hay to pellets should be consistent to favor a sensitive digestive system. 

Food includes- 

Hay- timothy, orchard grass, brome, and oat hago one or mix are some suitable varieties of hay. 

Pellets- this should be fed inconsistent amounts. 

Vegetables- 2 cups of vegetables are enough for a 5-pound weighing rabbit. There must be a variety of vegetables. Do not feed potatoes, nuts, seeds, or corn to rabbits. 

Vegetables that are good for rabbits are bell peppers, brunette sprouts, carrot tops, herbs, okra leaves, radish tops, fennel, lettuce, wheatgrass, etc. Some vegetables like carrots, spinach, broccoli, kale, and clover should not be fed daily. 

Rabbit farming business plan

Your business plan must include all the necessary components of rabbit farming. 

First and foremost, your business is determined by the investment you can put into it. The money will decide whether you will have a small or large farm. 

Investments are necessary for food, water, buying rabbits if proper variety, shed, and other necessary equipment. Big farms also need to take care of proper ventilation and controlling the spread of diseases in large populations. 

You need to be aware of proper food, care, and breeding management. Along with it, spend money on maintenance of the farm regularly. 

Commercial rabbit farming

The marketing of rabbits is not much of a problem. Almost all religions like Hinduism, Christians, Muslims, or jews do not have any religious prohibitions against the consumption of this animal. 

They generally have quite a slim profit margin. But rabbit farming can be used as a supplemental source of income and investment charges can be earned in very little time. 

It can bring money to you in just 6months of starting the project. 

The cost of a pet rabbit is generally around $50-$100. The price of New Zealand rabbits is$10 per piece. Flemish giants’ variety of rabbits that are non-pedigreed ranges from $20-$50 per piece. 

Younger rabbits come cheaper than grown-up ones. They have less meat on them and have high mortality risks too. But it is advised to purchase young rabbits at least 4 weeks of age. 

If you wish to raise rabbits and sell them to pet shops you can make at least $10 for each. 

How much can we get for rabbit meat?

Commercial meat processors generally give around $1-$2 per pound for live rabbits. 

Also Read: How to Start a Chicken Farm Business

Advantages of commercial rabbit farming

  • It is easy to maintain and a fast-growing animal as compared to any other commercial breeding animal.
  • It has a better food converting rate than others.
  • One female rabbit can give birth to 2-8 kids at one time and is quite beneficial
  •  It can be easily raised in a short space.
  • Maintaining costs are very less. 
  • It is loaded with nutrition, taste, and can be easily digested. 
  • It does not have any religious taboos. 
  • All aged people can consume this animal easily without any complications.
  • Favorite foods of rabbits are so cheap. They are grass, plants, leaves, and kitchen waste. 
  • Very little labor is required for maintenance. Less capital is needed for benign rabbit farming. 

How to feed rabbits?

Rabbits must be provided a balanced diet as mentioned above. Now here we may discuss, how to feed rabbits?

Consider the placement of food materials like hay or vegetables at one end of the litter box. Rabbits can comfortably sit in one place and have their food. Also, this way helps in keeping the cage clean too. 

Further, water must be provided in a sturdy bowl to avoid spilling and other consequences. 

Hay, vegetables, and water should be provided at proper times. fruits can be given as treated occasionally. 

In the end, rabbit farming is an easy profitable business even for beginners. The demand for rabbits is very low as compared to the output you can receive from them. Just take a little care of them and they bring huge benefits to you. These low maintenance varieties can also be kept as pets. Moreover, they are not only used for their meat but their skin and fur are also very useful. 

Following a proper business plan and making proper living conditions available for rabbits is mandatory. Depending on the need for rabbits in your area, you can begin as soon as it demands.  

References

https://www.agmrc.org/commodities-products/livestock/rabbits

https://www.moneycrashers.com/raising-rabbits-meat-farming/

Vegetable Farming

How to Plant, Grow Okra Step by Step Guide?

Author ByMaryem

The okra, a long prickly vegetable, is often known as a lady’s finger. Okra can be eaten in several ways, for instance,raw, pickled, or stir-fried, etc.The greengage of okra is mind-blowing and the taste is amazing though. 

The skin of okra could prickle your fingertips at just a gentle touch. And, slicing it exposes nothing more than seeds and slime. Are you wondering how to grow okra?

During the heat and humidity of a heated summer, just a few plants have real tolerance against the scorching sunlight and choking humidity. But, the okra loves heat and warm weather. The okra likes to flourish with the increment in temperature. And, of course, the warm weather eventually prolongs their green dark leaves and notably vivid flowers.

Okra is just different from the other plants in terms of sunlight. Keeping in the mind that the okra thrives in a warm climate, it is ideal to plant okra in early summer once the frost starts to disappear. 

As part of the process, the soil should have a temperature level of not less than 65 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the germination of seeds which turns into healthy seedlings. 

How to Grow Okra Guide?

Okra Plant
Picking an ideal place

When picking a place to plant okra, it is recommended that the area that has a warm climate throughout the summer is appropriate to grow okra and eventually higher yield.

Also Read: How to Grow Pumpkin

However, okra is known to grow in poor soils. It is better produced on healthy soils that are rich with plenty of organic material. But it is noteworthy that the excessive nitrogen contributes to better development of the plant, but adversely affects the growth of blooms.

So, it will be a wise decision to have a soil test if you have a plan to grow okra commercially. Also, the soil test usually provides a clear and authentic ratio proportion of the essential nutrients.

Sowing of okra seeds

It works great for the growers that have extended cold season to sow the okra seeds in pots indoor. They can propagate the plants once seedling starts to appear and frost disappears entirely. The germination for seeds takes about four to five weeks to become a seedling.

To get the quality results for okra farming, you can use the fresh seed that is soaked overnight. And, it is worth to sow two seeds per pot in case of indoor sowing as later you can remove any weak seedling from the pot if there is any.

Besides, you can sow the seeds directly where the okra plant is to grow for the rest of the season.

Soil preparation for okra cultivation

It is worth preparing the soil and allowing it to age before planting. During this process, this can be done by applying directly more organic compost to the soil. Like any crop, the okra often needs strong water retention and proper drainage.

Moreover, to germinate the seeds properly, you should sow the seeds half an inch below in light soil and one inch deep in hard soil. While it is appropriate to give three inches of space between the plants and approx three feet between the rows.  

Caring the okra plants

The okra plant needs a lot of space around it. In okra farming, the plants sometimes develop six feet high and can spread to a large degree. Thus, planting the seed with enough space is always worth the higher yield. 

Once the okra is around 4 inches high, try to keep weeds away and hold moisture around the roots. Furthermore, it is recommended to water every three or four weeks during dry periods as well as serve the compost on the side of plant roots.

1. Watering

The okra is a plant for the warm weather. Still, it is noteworthy to take care of the irrigation of plants so that they can grow to the full capacity and can produce a higher yield. In this exercise, if a plant has gained considerable height, it should be watered once in a week at least or more frequently if there are severe dry conditions in your local. While okra can survive a brief period of dryness, but it is worth to ensure that the dry period should not extend long.

2. Fertilizer

In case the soil is well prepared, okra would only require light compost dressings for the optimum results throughout the season. 

Besides, the powerful foliar sprays would be beneficial to make sure that each okra plant can give a higher yield. Also, fluid seaweed spray can be used two to three times in the growing season of okra farming.

The early growth of okra is always lazy, but as summer begins to settle, the plants grow much faster. As soon as the temperature rises the plant starts to grow in height. During this process, the okra leaves begin to develop, which are accompanied by tender seeds, to produce a yellow flower. 

Once grown about four to six feet, the plant develops a central stem that gives it a slight appearance just like a short tree.

3. Pollination

The pollinations of the okra largely depend on the climate during the season. The conditions such as temperatures above 90 ° F or under 55 ° F have an adverse effect over the pollination. Inhibiting too little light, water stress and nitrogen overload also may have adverse effects. Thus, plant it in the pleasant light, high in manure, and hold the soil abundantly moist.

Problems with okra farming

1. Root-decaying

The stem rot or the Fusarium is a fungal disease that favors warm soil. It is recommended to drag contaminated plants and drop away from the field. To prevent the fungal disease, leave soil for sunlight in late spring or summer is the utmost necessity.

This fungal infection often results in the death of the young seedlings, which is quite a treat for the okra crop.

Besides, another fungal disease, anthracnose spreads through high moisture and condensation. This has a severe effect over the plant leave and in excess, the plant could deteriorate. If you identify such conditions, it is appropriate to remove contaminated plants and discard them away from the field.

It is recommended to spray at least once in a week with fungicide coated with copper or sulfur.

2. Issues with the pods

1. The fungal traces may occur over the leaves. These are recognized with powdery mildew. This occurs when the humidity is strong. These spores germinate on dry plant surfaces while spores do not sprout on wet plants.

In such conditions, try to toss out leaves and pods that have been decayed. And, keep waste of plants away from the field.

2. A brown caterpillar of up to 2 inches in length can make a tunnel into the pods. This requires picking each insect and destroying them completely.

3. South green bug is a half an inch thick bright green insect. The bug sucks leaves and sap of pod that results in twists and deformation of them. To prevent these insects from okra farming, you can spray the okra plant with insecticidal soap.

4. Aphids are little insects that colonize underneath leaves and look like an oval and yellowish pear. They can leave the oily excrement, termed as the honeydew, behind them which may become a sooty black mold. Spraying the insecticidal soap can turn them down effectively.

Once, the pods start to appear and grow towards maturity.

Harvesting okra

The perfect time for okra cultivation is within three to four days of developing pods. As they mature quickly, they tend to be tougher, stringier, and less adequate to eat. You can pluck the okra but in the meantime, you need to take care of a few things.

  1. The okra is ready as an edible vegetable after 2 months of planting
  2. Once the okra grows to the two to three inches, it can be harvested. It is better to harvest them daily to encourage reproduction from the plants.
  3. After the first harvest, trash the lower leaves to help speed up production.
  4. Okra is covered with the prickle that can hurt your hands while plucking them by bare hands. 
  5. The vegetable might be too hard, signifies that okra is probably too old and should not be used.

You can enjoy okra throughout the winter if it preserved under cold storage. Sufficient cooling conditions prevent them from withering or losing the original taste.

Can okra and tomatoes grow together?

Both okra and tomato have a tall plant once grown to maturity. These may grow up to six feet. If you try to grow both the vegetable all along, it is ideal to keep the distance around four feet between two plants. The tomatoes are a great source of food for the stink bugs. Thus, it is worth having these around your main crops in the case of okra. These practices can keep many insects away from your plant.

The seafood gumbo, a shellfish based dish, has the perfect use of the okra. Besides, young leaves, similar to spinach, are often used in salads. And, seeds may be pressed or roasted for the oil. Apart from this, this plant is commonly used as a thickening agent in soups and stews.

References:
  1. https://www.thespruce.com/growing-okra-in-the-backyard-vegetable-garden-1403473
  2. https://www.planetnatural.com/growing-okra/
  3. https://harvesttotable.com/_okra_can_be/
  4. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/can-plant-okra-48528.html
Vegetable Farming

Bitter Gourd Farming: Basic Process And Diseases

Author ByMaryem

Bitter gourd farming or bitter melon farming has become very popular these days. Bitter gourd is popular for its medicinal advantages mainly and some people are in love with its bitter taste also.

Bitter gourd (Carantia Momordica) is an essential crop that has a distinct bitter taste and bitter gourd yield per acre spread. It has been cultivated for its unripe, tubercular fruits. It is a luscious, slightly smooth, climbing vine, covered in dark green leaves and deeply lobed dioeciously yellow flowers. 

Bitter gourd farming has a drug worth and is used for the treatment of diabetes, hypertension, rheumatism, and blood disorders. Naturopaths are advised to drink fresh bitter gourd milk. In many ayurvedic remedies, roots and wild bitter gourd stems are used.

The fruit is considered a rich vitamin and mineral source and 88 mg per 100 g of vitamin C. After cooking, the fruit is used and after stuffing and frying, delicious preparations are made. Fruits are partly cut, salted, and dried under direct sunlight during times of glut on the market and processed for months. During the glut phase. After baking, this is used. 

Things to Consider Before You Start Bitter Gourd Farming:

The Right Climate Requirment:

It is a mild seasonal plant mostly cultivated in hot and subtropical regions. They are vulnerable to mild frost and are partially protected when grown in the winter months. The 24o- 27oC temperature range is considered optimal for wine growth. When the temperature is above 18oC, the seed germinates best. The crop is sensitive to various fungal diseases due to its high moisture level during vegetative growth.

The Proper Soil

Bitter gourd yield per acre, on well-drained sandy to sandy loam, bitter gourd can be grown; medium-black soils rich in organic matter. Alluvial soil is fine to make bitter gourds in the river beds. An optimum number of pHs between 6.0 and 7.0.

Must Read: Snake Gourd Farming Guide

Planting Method

Land Preparation:

The ground is plucked and tilt-up by 1-2 tilting and flattening cross-sections. Depending on the support scheme to be followed, the furrows are opened at a distance of 1,5-2,5 m.

Method of Planting:

The plant is planted in the plains in autumn, from January to February, while the planting in the rainy season is planted in May. 4-5 kg of seed is needed for the plantation of 1 hectare. Thiram is handled (3 g/kg of seed) before planting.

Plant Support:

As a slow climber Bitter Gourd requires its growth boost. When ploughed without protection, the seedlings traced on the support (bower) still yield for 6-7 months vs 3-4 months.

These vines are less vulnerable to plague and diseases because they are not directly related to the soil. The planting is performed at an interval of 2.5 x 1m in the bower method.

Furs are opened at 2.5 m and canals of drainage are laid at a depth of 5-6 m. On both ends of alternative furrows at a distance of 5 meters are placed timber poles (3 m high). The cables are connected to these poles.

The wires along the furrows are further attached to a network of wires at a 45cm distance. Seminars are sprayed around the furrow at a distance of 1 m and slightly coated in dirt. 

The vines last approximately 1.5 to 2 months to the bower, so the vines are roped until they bower in the first phases of development. If the grapes exceed the height of the bower, the fresh vines travel to the bower.

Manuring and fertilization

The dose of fertilizer to be used would depend on soil variety, soil fertility, temperature, and planting season. The FYM (15-20 t/ha) is generally decomposed well and is mixed during ploughing with the dirt.

The suggested dosage is 50-100 kg N of P2O5 (40-60 kg) and 30-60 kg 25 K2O per hectare. Until planting, half of the N and whole P & K should be included. At the time of flowering, N balance is given. In a 6-7 cm ring from the base of the trunk, the fertilizer is added. Production technology of bitter gourd covers both fertilizer applications should be completed shortly before the fruit is placed.

Irrigation Process

Bitter gourd planting distance or Irrigation may not be required in rainy season crops, where precipitation is well spread between July and September. Bitter gourd planting distance Usually, the ridges are irrigated a day or two before seeds are planted, and, ideally light, they are irrigated for 4 or 5 days after seeds are planted. The irrigation is then conducted weekly. How to grow bitter gourd, To encourage rapid taproot growth, it is important to conserve moisture in the root zone.

Harvesting Tips

How to harvest bitter gourd most common question asked by our audience so here is the answer to it. It takes between 55-60 days to achieve the first harvest for the grapes of it as a bitter gourd growing time. More pickings can be completed 2-3 days after bitter gourd fruits ripen and turn red very quickly.

Fruit selection at the right level of edible maturity depends on individual types and species. Usually, the selection is performed particularly if the fruits are tender and green, so that during transportation the fruits will not turn yellow or yellowish. The harvest should take place in the morning and after harvesting the fruit should be kept in the shade.

Also Read: Ivy Gourd Farming: Planting,Care, and Harvesting

Yield:

Depending on the crop system, variation, season, and various others, the yield of production technology of bitter gourd varies. Fruit yields vary between 8 and 10 t/ha on average.

Post-Harvest Management

Grading: The fruits are classified according to their size and colour. Usually, the green fruits are 20-25 cm long with short neck and tuberculosis.

Packaging: The fruits are bought in baskets of bamboo or crates of wood. Neem leaves or newspapers are spread as lining material on the bottom until they are packaged. Until shipment to the market, the fruits are carefully collected and sealed with gunny sacks.

Storage: The fruit is eaten fresh and is kept briefly in the shade until it is packed and transported.

Diseases:

Powdery Mildew: This illness is favoured by high moisture and occurs first on older plants. Symptoms occur mainly on the top surface of the leaf as white powdery dust. Circular patches or streaks occur on the bottom surface of the leaves. In serious situations, these stretch out, coalesce and spread to the surfaces, stems, and so on. Severe attacks can lead to brown leaves and shrillness and defoliation. The fruits are not completely developed by the infected plants and are thin.

In the Cercospora leaf spot disease, there should be brown spots on the older leaves of the plant. Gummy stem blight is another serious issue for these plants. The symptoms are v-shaped yellow or brown area at the stem portion and also lesions at the stem. The symptoms of scab disease are brown lesions on leaves. 

Conclusion:

Bitter gourd farming is not only beneficial for your health and taste but also your pocket. As the veggie has a good market value, large scale bitter gourd farming can help you make money also. 

You just have to focus on the factors important to keep your bitter gourd plants safe and healthy so that they can bear good fruits. Hope the above-mentioned information is going to help you in the way of bitter gourd farming. Stay healthy, stay blessed.

Vegetable Farming

Bell Pepper Farming: Planting, Growing, Pruning, & Harvesting

Author ByMaryem

Bell Pepper crop is mainly grown when the weather is warm. These crunchy Bell peppers have some sweetness in them however they lack a component called capsaicin that gives it the heat. The external skin of the bell peppers is very smooth and provides a shield to crunchy flesh present inside.

Bell Peppers are hollow from inside and have so many seeds in the middle, attached to the white-colored membrane that lies along the wall. These are also known as the colored capsicum that is mainly red, yellow, and green. These have vitamin C and vitamin A in them.

Organic capsicum farming needs a temperature of 15 to 25° celsius and these grow very well at a height of about 2000 meters above the sea level. Bell Peppers can be grown in greenHouses and in greenHouse cultivation one can get up to 120 tonnes of yield to each hectare. 

Climatic conditions for growing bell pepper:

Bell Peppers can be cultivated in cool as well as warm conditions however extreme weather conditions are intolerable. So in summers to avoid too much heat, shading can be done. 20 to 25° C is the best temperature for germination as well as fruit set. 

Selecting the planting stuff for bell pepper plantation:

First of all, all the materials that you select for planting should be healthy. All the stuff should be diseases and pest resistant. Coming to the seedlings, for bell pepper plantation, the age of seedlings should be about 40 days. The seeding should be up to 20 cm long.

The crop should have a fine rooting system. The stem of the seedlings should possess a few leaves on it during the plantation. Selecting a good variety of all the planting material is very important for good quality fruit and high yield as well as good production. 

Must Read: How to Germinate Chilli Seeds

Soil preparation for bell pepper: 

The soil has to be properly loosened and make a nice tilth. After this beds are prepared to have heights of 45cm and 75cm wide. But before this step either vermicompost or properly decomposed organic matter along with sand and sawdust should be added to the soil.

Afterward, the beds are soaked with 4 Percent of formaldehyde and then are protected with polythene for about 4 to 5 days. Later on, these polythene covers are removed. Then the beds are to be raked regularly every day to remove the fumes of formaldehyde that are stuck in the soil. Sandy and loamy soil are best for these capsicums. For bell pepper, the pH of the soil should be 6.0- 6.8. Along with all these, this plant also requires a lot of care. 

Planting and Pruning of bell pepper:

When the seedlings are completely ready, then these are planted in the rows that maintain a distance of 60cm between them and the distance between the plants has to be 30cm. Imidacloprid is sprayed on the seedlings to prevent any pest infestation.

Pruning of bell pepper

During plantation, the bed should be watered, as the bed has to be completely wet during this process. After this, the seeds have been sown in two lines on the beds. Plastic mulches can also be used for this purpose as it also helps in controlling weeds and saving water.

Irrigation of the bed has to be done daily until the seeds are set up well. Later on, the drip irrigation method is used to irrigate the field with 2 to 3 liters of water to each square meter every day.

Pruning is started after about 20 days of plantation and this has to be done after every 7 days.

After the completion of 4 months, this activity has to be done once in 10 days. The seedlings of bell pepper are planted in a zig-zag pattern on the beds. 

Diseases of bell pepper: 

Mainly the disease is fungal diseases that include damping off, grey mold, pythium, powdery mildew, fruit rot, etc. 

Damping-off:

This is a disease of seeds that occurs when the plant has just started to grow. Pythium and Rhizoctonia solani are carriers of this fungal disease. In this disease, fungi destroy the root system of the plant. Some plants having this disease may have the potential to grow mature however these fungi will cause root rot and gradually kill the plant.

Growing the seedlings in an inert medium can help avoid this fungal disease however the reason for this disease can be poor sanitation in a greenhouse or improper soil, or climate or not irrigating on time can also be responsible for this.

When this crop is grown at a commercial level, the seedlings are transplanted from the greenhouse to Rockwool where the best conditions are provided and chances of any disease are also very less. Selecting fresh and healthy seeds and growing the plant under ideal conditions can help control the disease. 

Root rot or pythium crown disease:

This disease is not very common and usually occurs after the dumping of the disease. The main reason for this disease is stressful conditions in the greenhouse. This disease can be under control by growing the plant in ideal conditions and maintaining the temperature in the root zone and irrigating them from time to time. 

Fusarium stem or fruit rot:

In this dark brown soft, and black lesions appear on the stems. This fungal disease is mainly caused by Fusarium solani. These black lesions may also be seen around the calyx and this degrades the quality of food.

Fusarium stem or fruit rot of bell pepper

To avoid this fungal disease, the greenhouse should be neat and clean and some sanitation should be exercised to prevent fruit rot. The plants that are infected should be immediately and carefully removed from the greenhouse to avoid the spread of disease to every plant.

The greenhouse should be properly ventilated so that it has good air circulation and talking about the humidity, it should not rise more than 85 percent otherwise it will be harmful. 

Also Read: Why Are Bottom of Tomatoes Turning Black: Blossom End Rot

Gray mold fungal disease:

The fungus Botrytis cinerea is responsible for gray mold disease. It is a very common disease. High humidity and bad air circulation favor this disease. In this disease, the fungi get into the crop from the wounded area where greenish colored lesions develop.

gray mold fungal disease in bell-pepper

These lesions griddle the stem and the plant dies at the end. The gray mold infection is usually found in the wounded area or calyx in the beginning. To avoid this fungal infection, proper air circulation has to be maintained and the relative humidity should not be more than 85 percent. 

Powdery mildew:

This is the next disease of bell pepper. This disease is mainly caused by Leveilluta Taura. This disease was first reported in Canada. In this disease, the overall crop yield decreases by 10 to 15 percent. In this disease, the white powdery layer can be seen on the surface of the leaf. 

These were some of the fungal diseases and their symptoms and control. Next comes the diseases caused by viruses. 

  • PMMV:

Pepper mild mottle virus: In this disease, any part of the plant can get infected. This disease is very difficult to detect until the plants start fruiting. In this disease further, the growth of a plant can be infected. Symptoms of this fruit occur well before the stunting symptoms and include the development of obvious bumps on the fruit as well as color streaking and green spotting when the fruit matures to color. The fruit is very sharp from the corners and may also develop sunken brown areas on the external skin.

Daily use of skim milk as a dip while handling the plants helps to prevent the spread of the virus in the crop. Skim milk has the protein that helps to bind to the virus and disables it. The virus is secure in the sap of the plant. This virus easily expands from plant to plant.

Once the plants start fruiting, PMMV (pepper mild mottle virus) can be easily detected in the plant through its symptoms on the vegetative parts of the plant. Infected plants should be pulled out very carefully and crushed because the virus can survive in a dry plant also. If all plants bear normal fruit, then it means that the plant is known disease-free and the use of skim milk can be stopped.

  • Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV)

Tobacco mosaic virus disease can be found in greenhouse pepper throughout the world. Initially, the symptoms of this virus can be noticed on the surface of the leaf-like an injury with the main veins. Along with this wilting and leaf drop can also be observed. Also when the new plants start growing, then also these symptoms and this disease can be found in the plant and even it degrades the growth of a new plant.

To avoid this virus disease-free seeds should be used. The utility of skim milk dip can be helpful. The fully grown plant may carry the disease without showing any symptoms of the disease plants. 

  • Tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV)

Tomato spotted wilt virus TSWV has a long list of hosts that upsets almost 300 different species of plants. Thrips are the main reason for the spread of this virus, these thrips are the main problem in the greenhouse plants.

There are blackish-brown round shaped spots or tan spots that are surrounded by a black margin. 

 When the fruit ripens, the color of the fruit changes with orange to yellow spots having a green margin. Green spots can also be noticed at the backside of the ripened fruit that is red, yellow, or orange. 

Control of this virus:

This virus can be controlled by checking on the thrips and controlling them. In the starting, knowledge about thrips control and the other reasons for the spread of this disease should be gathered. One should take care of all the symptoms to avoid the disease.

Check on weed is also very important as if you don’t cut off the weeds it will suck all the necessary nutrients and the plant quality will degrade. Ornamental plants should be kept away from the greenhouse as they can also be a source of the virus.

Harvesting of bell pepper: 

The activity of harvesting can be initiated after completion of 2 months after plantation. However red and yellow capsicums take 3 months to become mature. Harvesting is done at the interval of 10 days and is carried out for almost 200 days.

Harvesting of bell pepper

After harvesting these can be stored in a cool place. These fruits are wrapped properly and then stored at a temperature of about 8° C and can be stored maximum for two months. After wrapping the capsicums, these can be packed in cartons of different sizes according to the need.  

Tips for growing bell peppers: 

  1. Mulching should be done from time to time and properly for good quality and high production. 
  2. Irrigation also has to be done properly as bell pepper needs deep watering. Especially in dry conditions watering should be done on time otherwise the fruit will taste bitter.
  3. Bell Peppers are warm climate crops and need proper sunlight for good growth.
  4. Using the correct fertilizer is very important as this greatly affect the crop yield
  5. Staking is not compulsory in bell pepper however it can help the crop to keep it off the floor. 
  6. Keeping a check on the pests is very important to avoid the diseases and hence suitable insecticides or pesticides should be used

Conclusion:

Bell pepper farming is a very fun activity as well as a profitable business. One should take care of all the necessary activities and take proper care of the crop.

Vegetable Farming

Potato Farming, Planting, Growing & Harvesting

Author ByMaryem

This scientifically-backed potato farming guide covers everything from planting to growing, harvesting, and storage. And, also, how to keep them fresh for very long!

Yes, the most common, our very own, very favorite, evergreen vegetable needs to be planted in early gardening season – as soon as the frost appears out of the soil, and you can work on the soil!

Different types of “best-days” are recommended by the folklores

  • Old-timers in England used to plant potatoes when they noticed dandelions in the fields.
  • Gertrude’s Day aka St. Patrick’s Day (March 17) is considered as the “official potato-planting day” by the Pennsylvania Dutch.
  • A lot of Christians used to believe that Good Friday was the best day for planting potatoes because Devil could not do anything wrong on that day!

Isn’t it funny and interesting to know these facts about potatoes? Let’s start this detailed potato planting guide to know more about the farming of potatoes.

What is the best time to plant potatoes?

Cool-weather is suited best for the growth of potatoes. In Northern regions, farmers usually start potato farming in early to mid-April, 6 to 8 weeks before the expected end of the frost days. Potatoes do survive cold weather, but frosts are the real danger for them. If you feel the threat of frost at night, you can use mulch or any other artificial covering like plastic containers or old sheets to cover the sprouted foliage(s). But you must have to remove those covers in the morning.

Also Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

Here is how to properly fight frosts

Consider planting potatoes at least a couple of weeks after the last spring frost. Yes, you have the option to start it earlier, but frost or overly wet soil can damage some of the crops.

While deciding about the best potato farming season, follow the appearance of soil, instead of the calendar. If you follow the soil, it will tell you, when to plant the potatoes. The ideal temperature of soil for the proper growth of potatoes is a minimum of 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). There should not be excessive moisture in the soil too. Because excessively wet soil will stick together, and you will find it difficult to work on it. If the soil is wet, give it some time to dry. Like most of the other seeds, potato seed pieces will start decaying if the soil is too wet.

In southern parts, the winter season is great for potato crops with September to February as the perfect window for planting. In central Florida, farmers prefer planting potatoes in January, while February is the month of potatoes farming in Georgia.

Preparing the site for planting

  • As already discussed, cool weather is best suited for growing potatoes. And loose, well-drained soil with 50 degrees to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees to 15.5 degrees Celsius as optimum temperature.
  • Choosing a location with proper sunlight of at least 6 hours per day is important.
  • If we talk about “plant potatoes how far apart”, potatoes are grown in rows with a distance of 3 feet between two rows.
  • Use a round-point shovel or hoe to 6-inches wide and 8-inches deep trench to ensure proper potatoes planting depth, tapering the bottom with a width of 3-inches.
  • Spread and mix in organic compost or fully-rotted manure in the trench bottom before planting.

How to plant potato slices?

  • In each trench, put a piece of seed potato after cutting side down, maintaining 12 to 14 inches of distance between two seed potatoes, and then cover them all with around 4 inches of soil.
  • If you have rocky soil in your field, place the seed potatoes all around the field. Add a little amount of compost to the soil, and cover them with leaves or straw.
  • Starting the potato farming with seed potatoes is the best idea. And make sure, you don’t get confused with seed potatoes with “potato seeds” or grocery produce. Planting potatoes with sprouts or protruding buds (eyes) is always recommended.
  • Use a sharp, clean knife to make slices of large potatoes, ensuring there are at least two buds in each piece.
  • If you have small potatoes, plant them without cutting.
  • If you are doing the cutting work yourself, do it a couple of days before planting. These two days will give enough “healing” time to the potato slices, and a protective layer will also form on each slice, making them resistant to rots as well as retaining enough moisture.
  • After around a couple of weeks, when you see a few more sprouts out of the soil, fill the trenches with 3 to 4 inches of soil again, exposing out only a few inches of plants. Keep it repeating every 2-3 weeks, and keep the soil 4 to 5 inches above the ground level (this is usually called “hilling”).
  • Once the potato plants flowering starts, add organic mulch in between the rows to ensure enough moisture. It will also help in keeping the soil cold, and will also protect from weeds.

Growing and hilling potatoes

Protecting the tubers from direct sunlight is a very critical part of growing potatoes. If the tubers are exposed to direct sunlight, they will produce solanine, a toxic product, making potatoes inedible, bitter, and potentially nausea-inducing.

“Hilling” is the way to protect potatoes from toxicity and to make them edible.

Hilling is not a very tough process: You will notice multiple main stems with flowering and leaves just where potatoes grow. And during this phase of initial growth, tubers are formed on secondary stems underground which branch off from the main stems. To protect shallow tubers from direct sun exposure and to ensure the production of more tubers, you should “hill-up” a few inches of more soil at regular intervals. For productive growth, hilling is done three to four times during a season.

Some important “hilling” tips

  • You will notice that the plants are at their maximum height in the morning, and that’s the best time for hilling. Plants get drooped with an increase in atmospheric temperature throughout the day.
  • Ensure maintaining enough moisture, especially at the time of appearance of sprouts till the several blossoming weeks. Potatoes growing roots require 1 to 2 inches of water every week. Excessive water in the beginning and then a drop in water quantity at the time of formation of potatoes will make tubers misshaped.
  • You should stop hilling the soil when you see blooming of potato plants, and when the part of the plant is at least one foot tall above the ground. You can support the plant and cover the tubers by hoeing the dirt up.
  • Yearly crop rotation is recommended for the regular growth of potatoes and also for maintaining enough life in the soil.

Pests and diseases related to the potato crop

Colorado potato beetles: You can hand-pick them and remove away from the field. Sometimes, predatory birds also feed on them. Food-grade diatomaceous earth is also effective in controlling when they are in a nymph state. Spinosad, an organic pesticide is an option when the beetles get uncontrolled. There are various types of insects that are beneficial for potatoes farming. So, avoid harming them by using beetles-killing products either at dawn or at dusk.

Potato scabs: Usually caused due to an increase in the pH of the soil. Always remember that potatoes like slightly acidic soil (with a pH of no more than 5.2). Dusting seed potatoes with sulfur is a good idea to avoid scabs. You can also add pine straw on the top of potatoes during planting.

When to harvest potatoes?

“New potatoes” which are usually harvested early in the harvesting season purposefully to keep them tender and smaller, are ready for harvesting two to three weeks after cessation of the flowering period. New potatoes are not suitable for long storage and should be transported and used within a few days of harvesting.

You can harvest “regular potatoes” once the foliage starts to die back. The upper part of plants should completely die for timely and productive harvesting.

potatoes harvest

Don’t water the potatoes much after mid-August (usual end of potato farming season) to keep them tough and hard.

You can check the maturity of potatoes by digging up a test hill. If the skin is firmly attached to the skin and is thick enough, your potatoes are mature and are ready for harvesting. If the skin is easily removable with hands, they are still new and are not yet ready for harvesting especially for long-time storage.

Light frosts are still not very harmful to potatoes, but once there is the beginning of first hard frost, the waiting time is over, and you should start digging the field and get the potatoes out.

“How” to harvest

First of all, cut down the brown foliage and leave the potatoes for a couple of weeks more before finally harvesting. If you follow this method for potato cultivation, potatoes will get enough time to develop a thick skin. But, don’t leave them for more than a couple of weeks, as they may rot.

Choose a dry day to dig the potatoes up. Dig up slowly and gently, avoiding any injury to the potatoes. If the potatoes are damaged while digging, don’t keep them for storage, and use them as soon as possible.

If there is excessive moisture in the soil, leave the potatoes in the air for long enough to dry them properly. Transfer them into containers only when they are completely dried.

Once the potatoes are out on the surface, don’t leave them under the sun exposure for so long, as they may turn green. And green potatoes are bitter due to the presence of solanine. And if eaten regularly, can cause stomach upset, diarrhea and vomiting, etc. You can of course trim off the small green spots, but if half of the potato is green, you should throw it away.

How many potatoes per acre?

It depends on a lot of different factors including soil, weather throughout the season, caring, hilling, irrigation, use of insecticides and pesticides, and diseases, etc. A potato farming yield per acre is considered as “good” if you get 10 tons of potatoes per acre.

Curing Potatoes

  • Freshly dug potatoes should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry place with the temperature between 45 to 60°F/7 to 15°C for a couple of weeks. It will ensure proper curing of skin and will make potatoes ready to store for longer.
  • After a couple of weeks of curing, don’t forget to brush off any soil on the potatoes.
  • Don’t wash potatoes unless you are going to use them. Washing potatoes reduces their life span, and can’t be stored for long.
  • After curing, don’t store potatoes near apples, as apples leave ethylene gas which can spoil the potatoes.

Storage of potatoes

Proper storage is the biggest challenge after the end of potato farming season. Ideal temperature, high humidity, no light, and ventilation, etc. are some of the important aspects of potato storage. You can’t store potatoes just anywhere. Storehouses with root cellars are preferred storage places for potatoes. Potatoes need cool temperature otherwise they may get affected from sprouting – and you are of course storing them for selling, not for farming again 😉

Recommendation for storage

  • There must be high humidity in the storeroom. Potatoes contain as much as 80% of water, and if there is dryness in the atmosphere, they will start drying out. Having a damp cellar is a perfect option. Otherwise, you can also increase humidity by storing perforated bags with tubers. Placing large pans of water near the air source is also a decent idea to maintain humidity.
  • Greening of potatoes is one of the major problems after the end of potato farming season. To avoid greening, store potatoes in dark storerooms. If that’s not possible due to any reason, you can pack potatoes in large, dark, perforated plastic bags to ensure darkness, and at the same time, to ensure proper, inside out air movement.
  • Ventilation is a must for potatoes. They use oxygen and give carbon dioxide even when they are harvested. Avoid putting potatoes in air-tight containers. Use perforated bags as already mentioned above to keep them fresh for long enough.

So, that’s all about our guide on potato farming. You can follow these steps to ensure productive and beneficial farming of perhaps the most evergreen, and the most commonly used vegetables around the world. In addition to “how” and “when” related to potato farming, you must have to be sure about where potatoes grow. So, choose the farming area wisely, follow the soil instead of the calendar to know the right time to start cultivation, and go with the above-mentioned steps to kickstart your potato business in the right direction. Don’t forget to write back to us, if you liked our guide. Happy farming, healthy farming! Cheerio!

Reference:

https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes

Fruit Farming

Powdery Mildew of Pumpkin

Author ByMaryem

This is a type of fungal disease that can occur in a large variety of plants. Different types of fungi are responsible for this disease. Due to their different symptoms, these diseases can be easily diagnosed. In this disease, powdery spots of white color can be seen on the stems and leaves.

The leaves on the lower part are mostly affected however this effect can be noticed on any part above the ground. In this disease with time the size of spots increases. In this the affected plant becomes weak and due to this the size and taste of fruit also get affected. Powdery mildew of pumpkin can be avoided by separating off the affected part from the plant, planting the plants at more distance so that they can get sufficient air.    

What causes powdery mildew on pumpkin plant :

To treat or prevent the disease properly, it is important to know the cause of the disease. This common disease is caused by fungi. The fungi named Erysiphe cichoracearum is responsible for powdery mildew in pumpkin. It affects the leaves, flowers as well as stem of the plant. It also has an impact on the yield. Due to the microscopic spores that exist in chains, the white-colored powder can be seen. 

These spores germinate without water. Hence they grow very fast in dry and warm weather conditions. More spores are produced within days. The wind is the agent that spreads it to other plants. Sometimes the weather conditions also support the growth of this powdery mildew. These conditions include dry days and cool nights with humidity. In these conditions, the infection spreads rapidly. Other than this the temperature range from 68°F to 80°F also favors the disease. 

Must Read: how to plant, grow, and harvest pumpkins correctly and properly

Some other reasons for the disease can be: maintaining less distance between the plants. If the air circulation is not proper, the chances of the disease are more. Hence proper distance should be there between the plants and the greenhouse or the garden should be well ventilated. 

The next reason is the lack of light. When the plant doesn’t get sufficient light, it also favors the infection. Hence the leaves of the plant should be planted in such a way that it gets sufficient light. Exposing the leaves to shade for a longer time will help in the production of buds hence adding to the disease. 

Next not treating the disease after discovering it or not keeping a check on it will be carelessness. Due to this, the leaves first turn yellow, and then they will die and fall. Along with this, the white spots can lead to a sunburn of pumpkin.

How can you treat the powdery mildew of Pumpkin:

There are a lot of different methods that can be adapted to treat this disease. From these so many methods, the organic method is considered the best way to treat this infection. However chemical treatments are also available.

Also Read: Why Are Bottom of Tomatoes Turning Black: Blossom End Rot 

Some of the preventive measures for powdery mildew are: 

  1. Planting the pumpkins in a way that they get proper sunlight. As we know that insufficient sunlight can lead to this disease therefore proper arrangements for enough sunlight should be there.
  2. The next preventive measure can be planting the plant at the correct distances. A lot of distance should be maintained in each plant as planting them closely leads to infection. Hence to ensure proper air circulation, well distance has to be maintained and the garden or greenhouse should be well ventilated. 
  3. When you water the plant, try to water near the plant and make sure that leaves don’t come in contact with water. 
  4. If you see the symptoms of the disease or see the spots, immediately remove the part of the plant to avoid the spread of infection to the whole field. Cut off the infected part and dispose of it. Also, check all the other plants carefully as it spreads very easily through air or wind. 
  5. Further, do sterilize all the tools used for pruning to prevent the spread of disease to other plants. For this keep the scissors in a solution made of one part of bleach and four of water. Also, make sure that you wash your hands properly after you deal with the infected plant. Spray the foliage in the field so that the powdery mildew doesn’t occur again. Put 2 tables of aspirin in the water and then dissolve it well and spray the solution on the leaves. The best time to spray this can be early morning. 
  6. If the plant still doesn’t get rid of the disease and the infection occurs again and again then you have to detach the whole plant and fungicides have to be sprayed to the soil to prevent the infection from spreading to the whole field. 
  7. Keeping a check on weeds and removing them from time to time is also a very important step as weeds can act as an obstacle for the sunlight and plants may not get proper sunlight.
  8. However, if you are growing the plant at home in your garden then there’s a simple home remedy for the disease. For this, you have to mix the water and milk in equal amounts and then spray it on the plant two times a week. 
  9. One can use organic compounds like sulfur or potassium bicarbonate. These organic compounds are very effective for powdery mildew.
  10. One should check the plant at least once a week to avoid the disease.

Bottom line:

The disease powdery mildew of Pumpkin is very common and also spreads very easily. Hence it needs proper care. To avoid the disease or to prevent it, the above given preventive measures should be taken. This fungal disease can affect the yield as well as the taste of the plant hence one should keep a check on the plant. 

Vegetable Farming

Eggplant: Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Eggplants

Author ByMaryem

Eggplant, Brinjal, Aubergine is an important crop of the tropical and subtropical regions. The name is derived from the shape of the fruit of some of its varieties.

Eggplant is grown mostly in the warmer regions. Its cultivation is very popular in countries of the far-east region, India, Pakistan Bangladesh, USA, Italy, France, and Egypt. Eggplant farming is very popular in lower altitude regions of India. Commonly known as Brinjal in the country, it is a principal, popular and common vegetable crop grown across the country. Due to its adaptation to various climatic conditions eggplants can be grown throughout the year. There are also many hybrid varieties that are being cultivated in the country.

Here are few tips that will help you in performing eggplant farming and in improving your crop yield.

How to grow eggplant?

In order to obtain desired and good growth of eggplant there are certain conditions to be followed. Despite being easy to grow and high temperature tolerance eggplant could be a little tricky plant to grow.

Here are the conditions that are to be kept in notice when growing eggplant.

Climatic conditions: 

eggplant is a hot weather crop highly intolerable to frost and snow weather. Short days and long cool nights are not suitable for growth of eggplant and tend to make the produce deformed. The desired temperature required is in the range around 13 – 21oc.

Also Read: Yellow and Curling Eggplant Leaves

Soil requirements and conditions:

eggplant can be grown in any type of soil be it light sandy or heavy clay. Soil rich in organic matter with a PH ranging from 6.5-7 is considered the best. To obtain a higher yield it is advised to start planting in heavy clay soil.

The soil should be well ploughed before transferring seedlings as eggplant remains in field for long time. Soil should be incorporated well with manure. Field should be irrigated well transferring seedlings.

Pollinators: 

self-fertilizing flowers of eggplant can be fertilized by the wind. But to obtain a good fruit size buzz pollination by bees is considered suitable. If you have a smaller field and few plants you could also for hand pollination.

Feed the plants timely:

when the plant bloom first set of flower, they can get benefitted from extra nutrients. You can give in extra nutrients by putting in additional organic fertilizers or compost manure. If you are growing eggplants in a container utmost care has to be taken, when putting the feed make sure you are not overfeeding the plant as it causes salt buildup which will cease the growth of the plant.

Battling the flea:

growing an eggplant although is easy, but with this ease comes the fleas. These tiny hoppers make holes in the leaves of the plants. In order to protect plants from these fleas and other insects grow your plants in pots on a raised surface or you can use a tulle net to cover the rows of plants and protect them of fleas.

Eggplant growing stages:

It is important to know about the growing stages of eggplant before planting them in order to obtain a surplus of produce.

Eggplant grows in following stages:

  1. Seeds:  It takes about 1-2 weeks for eggplant seeds to sprout into a seedling. once the seedling germinates within 10weeks or when they develop 4-5 leaves they can be transplanted into the greenhouse farm and stored at a warmer temperature as cold temperature destroys the seedling.
  2. Adult eggplant: number of days required by eggplant to attain maturity depends on the variety being grown. They take approximately 120days to attain full maturity. The sign of maturity is that they grow the main stem with oval-shaped leaves with leathery texture and spine-like hairs.
  3. Flower and fruit: flowers are purple colored and star-shaped. The florals have both male and female parts and are self-pollinating. The female part of the flower develops into the fruit depending on the variety of eggplant grown. The plant bears the fruit for 80days.
  4. Harvest: This is the last stage of eggplant growth. You can tell the fruit is ready to be harvested when it develops glossy skin and firm texture. If you want to harvest the seeds of eggplant you will have to wait until the skin of the fruit become dull and the texture becomes soft to touch.

Watering eggplant:

Watering eggplant adequately is very important, in case of reduced moisture content the fruit loses the flavor and become bitter in taste. In order to prevent this makesure your plants are being watered regularly and plants are being supplied with additional supplemental water based on the conditions required.

During the growing season or hot weather conditions it is best to water eggplant 1inch per week or more based on the conditions. You can also monitor the moisture content of soil using a moisture meter this will help you ensure that the soil is not excessively dried if so you can water the plant efficiently.

It is best to water the plants during the early morning or during the evening as the water evaporation rate is less during these times. Mulching around the plant roots also helps in retaining water near the roots for a longer duration.

Harvesting eggplant:

Proper harvesting of an eggplant yields tender and flavourful fruit.

Time required from planting to harvest is 100-150days

The appearance of the fruit is your guide to know if your fruit is ripened enough to be harvested.  Thin, firm and glossier skin of the fruit is the main sign to be noticed before harvest. If you are someone new to farming before harvesting eggplant you will have to cut the fruit and check the colour of flesh inside the fruit. The flesh should be cream in colour with small seeds.  Once you have learnt how to identify the physical appearance of fruit for harvesting you don’t need to cut the fruit. Eggplants without any seeds are immature whereas eggplants with dark and hard seeds are over-ripened and bitter in taste. Separate the eggplant from the stem by using a pruning shear or sharp knife; keep a stub of stem attached to the fruit.

Eggplant growing time:

It takes approximately 120days for the eggplant to grow and get mature. When you are growing a plant from the seeds it has to be cultivated indoors first which takes around 10weeks time. Then they can be transplanted to the greenhouse farms.

Opt for the variety of eggplant that have faster growth rate and better yield values in few days time. There are various hybrid varieties of eggplant that have more improved qualities and resistance to diseases making them more better option to plant.

By implementing these tips before starting planting you will definitely see a surplus in growth and yield with better quality.

Happy Farming!

Farming Pedia

Soybean Farming: Planting, Growing & Harvesting

Author ByMaryem

Soybean farming is traditionally a part of Indian Agriculture. It is a golden-colored bean-shaped crop. 

The crop is extensively high in protein content. Soybean is largely consumed for its edible oil.

Soya is also a consumable milk product. Enormously utilized in the form of neutral tasting soya chunks.

Indian loves this for its low-fat content and rich omega 3 fatty profile. This crop helps in fetching a good amount of revenue.

If you are looking into soybean farming, there should be a proper layout designed accordingly.

Essentials for soybean farming

When planning for soybean farming, you should have a complete idea about its necessities.

Soil

Soybean gels along loamy, and well-drained soil. It should have a PH balance between 6-7.5. Water-logged soil hampers the growth of this golden crop. So, it should be taken care of on a disciplinary basis.

Planting Season

Mid of April till May or June is the best suited time for planting soybeans.

Seed Selection

Go with a genetically trusted variety of seeds for soybean farming. The seeds should be free from diseases, healthy, and fit for planting.

Irrigation

As it is a Kharif crop, which means sown at the onset of monsoon, no more irrigation is required. But when it comes to a drought prone area, field needs to be watered properly. Due to rains, care should be taken to choose well-drained soil.

Preparing land for soybean farming

This is the initial step towards soybean farming. For a good production, it must be ensured that the land is not sown with soybean crop earlier. Or you can say, field should have a clean history.

It leads to the growth of small unwanted plants on the land.

Also, it becomes a habit for pathogens that might develop due to previous cultivation. So, the best way out is crop rotation. This ensures a perfect crop.

Ridges and furrows should be made according to the need of the method to be practiced.

Planting soybean

Planting soybean depends upon the seed and the weather. It is a myth that the sooner you sow them the earlier you get them. 

Make it crystal clear the ground has to be moisture-laden and the temperature should be heading towards a warmer effect.

Ensure that the crop must not be threatened by the frost effect. A warm climate maintains the soil temperature for healthy cropping. 

For amazing results plant them in April end. Although over time lot of techniques have been evolved for a perfect yield. But the weather is still the deciding factor.

Planting soybean

Tool requirement and seed spacing

The tool requirement remains the same for soybeans and corn. A corn planter ensures an accurate depth and firm fix in the soil. 

Being soil type and atmospheric conditions, the deciding factor, you need to go according to them. 

Planting the soybean seeds 1.1/4 to 1.1/2 is the advised depth for an impressive yield. Last you can go till 2 inches but the variety must have the capacity to thrive excellently well.

Spacing is not a compulsory practice to be followed in the case of soybeans. Though a space of 30 inches is great, as intimacy between the plants might generate bugs and pathogens.

Also Read: What is Mango Farming all about? A complete guide

How long does it take for soybeans to grow?

A soybean farming attains maturity at 3-4 months from being planted. Rest the quality of the seeds also determine their growth rate.

Don’t forget all the necessary conditions for growth shows impressive results. And the sprouting phase comes in 3 to 7 days of sowing seeds.

Remember to feed them with good fodder and they start cropping within time.

How long does it take for soybeans to grow can be achieved by providing them with all the necessary required things for growth?

Weed control in soybean farming

Cropping up of weed is the major issue in soyabean farming. To check the growth is a task to be carried on a routine. A continuous effort has to be made for discouraging the weeds.

Weed control in soybean

You can look for some weed dismantling elements to be added to the soil for the relief. These defoliants for stopping weeds get life on adding water to them. Adding water is done to moisten them and not water-logging.

This is done generally after 24-30 from planting the seeds.

Soybean growth stages

The production in soyabean farming is classified into 4 stages:

  1. Flowering:

The reproduction process starts when the seeds start coming to life. Soybean is typically a night-lover crop. When they get longer nights than day, seed instigates flowering.

Flowering Soybean

By this time, the plants have attained a height of 15 inches almost. Now, the flowers start emerging from the nodes of the stem. The flowers are placed between the leaf axil and are known as racemes.

These flowers turn into pods that bear the seeds. Then there are secondary racemes which are again dependent on the primary ones.

  1. Complete flower:

The complete blooming is attained when the flower reaches full size and opens up at the upper node on the stem. The emergence of a new flower slows down rendering space for the bloom. 

Blooming indicates that the growth of soybean is at a rapid pace with the plants becoming 17-22 inches tall. Thereby the lateral roots becoming deeper and firmer to the soil.

In this, the plant has reached 50% of its height and growth. Prevention from insects, illness and hails increase the output rate at this time.

  1. Pod arrival

The pod arrival is a sign of the emergence of a bean. This is a crucial stage in the development of fruit. The plant is sensitive to any sort of damage.

As it can affect the pod size and number, bean size and number, and the seeds too. However, a prolonged flowering time can be helpful. The flowers disappear up to 70% as the pods appear and grow in size.

Now by this time the plant size is about 22 inches or more, which means almost near to maturity.

  1. Complete fruit

The pod grows in size and number heading towards completion. It marks the end of the soybean growth stages. The plant is fully grown by now bearing pods as the result.

The only thing to keep in mind is the irrigation part. Also protecting the plant from damage in the early growth period to get a healthy fruit at the end.

Pest and disease of soybean

Soybean farming is susceptible to pests. The pest and diseases of soybean affect their growth. Some of the common diseases are a bacterial blight, downy mildew, bollworm, and corn earworm moth. 

All these pests hamper the growth and curb it by 15-20%. Proper treatment for pest and disease control in soybean farming is necessary to increase the production rate.

Must Read: Why Are My Spinach Leaves Turning Yellow

Pest and disease control in soybean farming

Fungicidal seed treatment is a preventive step for root rot or where the seeds are planted in wet soils. At the time of plantation, fungicides are applied to the soil. This protects the seeds and accelerates the growth.

Pest and disease control in soybean

Soybean rust can be checked by the proper and timely application of fungicides. These soybean scouts mean spots on the leaf must be checked timely to restrict the spread further.

Organic farming in soybeans

Organic farming is among the best soybean farming techniques. The farm is solely prepared for soybean farming. Although, we know that crop-rotation works wonder for soybeans.

A best tropical or temperate climate with good fertile or productive soil adds life to the farming. Good organic manures and timely weed check are the necessary elements for the acceleration of growth. In case of phosphate deficiency.

Crop-rotation is carried out to discourage soil damage. Fixing nitrogen level to the soil should be followed. The PH should rank between 6.5-7 for a great yield. Once fixing the soil needs for the farming. You can proceed further.

Now, go for crop-rotation as it focuses on curbing pests and enhances soil productivity too. Spacing should also be done. About 45-60 cm gap should be there to allow the crop to grow.

The organic soyabean farming technique is beneficial for soybean cultivation. It improves both the quality and quantity of production.

Soybean yield accounts for 18 to 35 quintals per harvest. With the passage of time yield of soybeans has gone amazingly high. Today, the organic soybean yield per acre accounts for 163 bu/ac.

Harvestation of soybeans

Harvesting of soybean ranges between 50 to 145 days from the plantation. At this time the leaves acquire a yellow color and droop down. You can see the soybean pods popping out of the plant. The seeds should be 15% moist at the time of harvest otherwise they tend to dry out easily.

Conclusion

Soybean farming is among the profit yield businesses. The soybeans are less input and high output crops. They fetch more return with minimum investment. Excellent management is more than enough.

High in demand in the form of seed oil, chunks, chaaps, yogurt, and much more. Having a cluster of benefits for pocket and health makes it fit for farming.

Weight management, keeps diabetes under control, improves digestion, and circulation in the body.

If you want to have your soybean venture, go ahead. 

Vegetable Farming

Radish Farming: Planting, Harvesting, & Diseases

Author ByMaryem

Radish ( Raphanus ) is a well known crop of both tropical and temperate regions. It is a quick growing crop and hence can be easily grown as intercrop along with other vegetables.

The roots of these crops are the edible parts that are fusiform and the color ranges from white to red. There are two different genetic groups of this crop. These are the Asiatic variety and the other is the European variety. 

Firstly the Asiatic variety is a tropical crop that produces edible roots in the first season whereas  seeds in the second season are biennial crops. However in the European variety, roots are produced in the plains of tropical as well as subtropical climate and the seeds are produced in the hills of temperature climate.

 Different types of Radish: 

There are different types of Radish plants for example watermelon radish, French breakfast radish, zlata radish, cherry Belle etc. Let’s discuss in detail about some varieties of radish. 

● Watermelon Radish:

This variety of radish is moderately sweet and less spicy. It shows mainly three different shades of color that are light green, white and beige. However like it’s name it’s color reminds of a watermelon. After plantation it matures in about  50-60 days. For proper growth there must be a minimum 3 inch of distance between them. 

● French breakfast radish:

It is our next variety of radish, red in color and is more elongated than the round radish that has round tip white in color. Along with it’s pleasant crispy taste it has a reflection of sourness. This variety of  radish matures very early and within 25-30 days after plantation and seeding is ready for harvest.

● Zlata Radish: 

It is quite different from the other varieties due to its yellow brown color and oval shape, it looks much similar to potato. This variety of radish is ready to harvest in probably 30 days. Zlata radish has small green leaves that can be used for salads as well as can be used for other green recipes.

● Cherry Belle: 

It is dark pink in color and round in shape. It tastes sweet and crispy. It is mostly eaten as salads. This variety of radish also matures very early within 25-27 days after germination.

● Daikon radish : 

This is a large sized radish about 14 inches long. It can be picked after about 60 days of germination and plantation. It has a delight and crispy flavor with a little bit of sweetness. It needs at least 4 inches of space to grow properly

● White Icicle:

This is our next variety of Radish which is cylindrical in shape and about 5-6 inches long. Fresh white icicles taste the best. It can be harvested in about 30-40 days after plantation.

● Round Black Radish:

Similar to it’s name it is black in color and has a very unique taste. It is spherical in shape. Though it’s black in color from out but it’s flesh is white and creamy with a strong flavor.

● Chinese Rose:

This variety of radish has a broadened shape. Its color is red-purple from outside and has white and pink colored veins inside. This variety matures in early autumn. It has a very particular taste. In the beginning it’s taste is delicate but suddenly the taste buds will sense a surprising pungent sensation.

● Horseradish:

This is the radish that doesn’t leave a bitter taste. Winters are best for plantation of horseradish and they mature in springs and can be refrigerated too.

● Easter Egg Radish: 

They are named so because of their shape, its shape is like that of an egg. Easter Egg Radish is available in a number of colors like white, pink, red, lavender and purple colors. They should be harvested when their diameter measures 1 inch as harvesting at this stage can avoid it from turning hard or bitter.

● Lady Slipper: 

It is news because of its unique shape. It has a bright and shiny pink color that is very attractive to eyes. It is white from inside and is sweet and crispy.

Plantation of Radish: 

The seeds of radish germinate within 5-8 days according to the moisture levels. These are very easy to grow and can be grown in pots as well as containers.

One can grow these at home on balconies or backyards or on the terraces. It matures in 4-5 weeks and is ready for the first harvest. These regenerate from the roots and can be grown from scraps too. Cooler climates are more suitable for it’s growth but also need sunlight.

Overcrowding can be a problem and the radishes may not grow properly. Radish requires Sandy soil that is fertile, well drained and has good organic manures. If these are grown in a pot or containers then adding compost can be useful. Radish needs about 1 inch water every week but one should not over water it or let it dry completely.

Leaving them on the ground for a long time can cause the radish to split. A well balanced N:P:K ( nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) is also a main requirement of radish along the other micronutrients.

Land preparation: 

Firstly the soil has to be ploughed 30-40 cm deep and it should be prepared properly so that there are no clots left. Any undecomposed matters should not be present in the soil as it can cause  forking of the root. Adding farmyard manures or garden compost can help to enrich the soil with organic manures and provide good yield. A pH range of 6-7.5 of the soil is appropriate for radish.

Also Read: Turnip Farming Information Guide

Soil sterilization: 

The soil can be sterilized maine by two methods that are physical and chemical methods 

In physical methods, the soil can be sterilized by heat treatments like it’s treatment with steam or with solar energy. However in chemical methods the soil is treated with herbicides or fumigation. Soil solarization is another method of soil sterilization in which a transparent plastic mulch film is used for the purpose.

During this process the the solar radiations passes through the plastic film and then is absorbed by the soil and then the absorbed rays gets converted into heat energy and due to which the temperature of the soil increase and hence it’s helpful in killing the soil borne diseases that includes pests as well as pathogens. For one hectare of land piece, about 10-12 kg of seeds would be enough. It is also found that for stimulating the germination of radish seeds naphthalene acetic acid can be proved helpful. For this the seeds have to be soaked in Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) 

Best time for sowing:

Radish is a winter crop cultivated in plains. The sowing process can be done in early winter however the sowing period can differ from place to place as it’s different for plains and hills.

Radish is generally grown on the ridges for good production. It can be grown as both single as well as companion crop. The minimum distance between the rows should be 45cm on the other hand the minimum distance between each plant should be 8cm. The depth at which the seed is sown is 1.15cm . There are 2 main methods of seed sowing: line sowing and broadcasting method

Line sowing method:

In this method the seed has to be mixed up with the soil  in 1:4 ratio and then placed in a row with hands over the ridges. After this it has to be covered by a layer of soil.

Broadcasting:   In this the seed is mixed up with the soil in the same way as done before and then it is scattered all over the field evenly. After this planking is done. 

Radish crops need uniform watering to maintain moisture in the soil. It should be watered For first 4 to 5 days and then irrigated at intervals of 3-4 days. If the soil is dry then the radish may taste bitter However on the other hand over watering can rot or split the roots. Irrigation also depends on the season ( rainfall conditions)  or the moisture levels of soil.

Manuring: 

Mixing the farmyard manures or garden compost entirely while land Preparation can be helpful for a good crop. However doses of other fertilizers like potassic phosphatic should also be added in the soil before sowing the seeds. As radish is a fast growing crop so the soil rich in the plant nutrients can prove to be more helpful.

Weed control:

Weeding is a process that is a very important part of cultivation of almost every crop, and so is for radish. Regular weeding has to be done to keep a check on weeds so that our crops get proper and sufficient nutrients.

Especially in the rainy season two weedicides are needed so that weeds don’t suckup all the nutrients. Tok E -25( nitrofan 25%) keeps a check on both monocot and dicot weeds. Earthing up and weeding both should be carried out at least once in the early stages. Earthing up should be carried out as it ensures the quality of roots. Once after the initial stages earthing up should be again done during the flowering and fruiting.

Diseases :

Clubroot is a Radish plant disease marked by the swelling or malformation of roots or the lateral parts.

This can be controlled by raising the pH of soil with heavy dressing of lime and keeping the field free from mustard. 

Plantation tips:

1. Seeding process should be carried out in early spring.

2. The seeds should be planted half an inch deep and at a distance of 1 inch from each other.

3. Keep your garden free from weeds for good quality.

4. Keep the soil from crusting around the plants as this helps the radish to become large.

Harvesting:

Harvesting is one of the important phases of radish cultivation as if you leave it unharvested for a long time it becomes inedible. Generally the crop needs to be harvested after completion of 3 weeks after sowing.

How do I know that the crop is ready to harvest:  Radish is ready to harvest when the leaves about the ground become large and 2-3 cm wide at the top.

Then pull out the mature radish from the ground separate off the green part on the top. The harvested radish can be refrigerated but has to be used within a week. If you want to save the seeds for next season then leave the radish in the ground for flowering.

Must Read: Sweet Potato Farming Information Guide

Yield: The temperate varieties of radish produce 10-12 tonnes of radish per hectare within a month whereas the Asiatic variety produces 14-15 tonnes within one and half month or less. It is a very profitable business with 

Marketing of the crop:  Mainly the transport of the crop is carried out with trucks to the local areas 

Conclusion: 

Radish is a crop that is grown and eaten throughout the world. It has a number of varieties namly pink radish, Malaga violet, white hailstone radish, cherry Belle l, watermelon Radish etc etc . It can be eaten in a number of ways, may be raw or in salad or cooked but salad is one of the most common ways to eat radish.

All these different varieties have their own flavor and tastes , some of them have a bit of bitterness in them. Along with different tastes these different varieties have different maturation time, some mature very early on the other hand some take time to mature. Radish crops germinate in a short time and also don’t take much longer to mature. 

Vegetable Farming

Growing Spring Onions From Seeds

Author ByMaryem

Spring onions also referred to as Allium fistulosum is a perennial plant. It is very delicious and versatile. They can be grown in minimal space and require little effort. 

The bulbs of spring onions can be consumed along with the greens. The whole plant holds importance and can be consumed either raw or cooked.  

Names and varieties of spring onions vary a lot. A few varieties of spring onions are- shallots (Australia), shallots, salad onions, Japanese welchbunching onions, scallions in the US, green onions (China), and Egyptian or tree onions. Some varieties have very small bulbs and some don’t have bulbs at all. 

Bulbs of spring onions can be consumed raw because they do not have much intense flavor. It can be grown from seed or bulb and can be stored easily for later use. 

The main variety of spring onion (Allium fistulosum) has no bulb in it. Allium refers to garlic and fistuosum means hollow stemmed in Latin. 

Spring onions are plants with a bulb and hollow stem covered with edible mild flavoured leaves. 

One variety of spring onions called red-stemmed spring onion is ornamental and eatable. 

Flavour-  these plants are mild flavoured. The bulb can be consumed along with leaves. Flavours of spring onions vary with variety from strong to sweet and mild. 

These perennial vegetables can be grown easily with very little effort and in minimal space. They are generally grown in subtropical regions. However, in cooler areas, such vegetables can be grown in nurseries. They can easily grow well in containers and even in the water on the kitchen bench. 

Height- The height of these plants ranges between 35-50 cm (12-20inch) singly or in clusters. The height of plants generally depends upon their variety. The root system of spring onions is very shallow. Therefore they can be easily grown in small pots. 

Growth of spring onions

Safe organic certified seeds can be used to grow healthy spring onions. 

Plants can also be grown from seeds saved from previous crops. 

Here is the way to collect seeds from spring onion plants- 

First, wait till the flower head of the spring onion matures fully. They chop that flower off and store it in place to dry it off. Place it to dry for around 2 weeks. Shake the seeds and scoop them out after they are completely dried. Store them in cool and dry places and seal them completely so that they do not get in contact with moisture and germinate. 

Spring onions can be stored for at least 2 years in dry places. As the age of seeds increases so does the time for germination of seeds. Germination of seeds is fastest when they are fresh. 

To grow healthy plants, you need to provide them with proper nutrition too. Homemade seed raising mix can save loads of money and is organic at the same time. 

While growing spring onions keep them moist and do not let them dry. if seeds dry out, this can lead to death. Plus, you can cover them to maintain humidity. 

You can also transplant them when they reach a height of around 15 cm. Buy 15 cm seedlings and plant them in your home garden. 

Choose varieties that suit the climate of your region. If you belong to colder regions then use the hardiest spring onion that is red welsh. Benizone variety also grows well in cold areas and has violet coloured stalks. 

Commonly preferred varieties of spring onions are mentioned below-

Spring onion ‘white Lisbon’–

Spring onion white Lisbon

They have a short cropping time and are great for overwintering. Due to their easy growth, they are a perfect choice for new and inexperienced gardeners. 

Spring onion ‘Pompeii’-

Spring onion Pompeii

The bulbs of this variety are rounder in shape and silver-skinned. They are best for picking ad serving on cocktail sticks

Spring onion ‘apache’-

This red variety has a very good flavor as compared to others. It has a crisp flavor and adds color to salads. 

Spring onion apache

Spring onions feast F1 hybrid- this one is outstanding and all-rounder. Successive sowings to harvest all summer long. 

Spring onions should be planted every 3-4 weeks to ensure a regular supply of spring onions. 

Must Read: Onion Farming, Planting, Care, Harvesting

Sowing seeds

Soil for sowing seeds must be fertile and well-drained. Prepare the soil beforehand of sowing seeds in it. Use fertilizers or manure to make it fully nutritious. 

Sow seeds of spring onions in 5mm ( ⅕ inch) deep holes. Place them at least 5mm apart and in 15 cm apart rows. They need around 8-12 weeks to mature. They do not require to be thinned because you will pull them when they mature and use them straight. 

Soil is used for planting spring onions must be well-drained. Spring onions hate loamy or too wet soil. They can rot or even die with excess amounts of water. Therefore, choose well-drained soil and it should be loose and friable. 

You can also add compost or manure to make it nutritious for plants. Worm castings and liquid fertilizers are also preferred by people.

the pH of the soil must be around 6-7. If it is too acidic then add sulfur to make it normal and if the soil is too basic then add lime to make it usable.

Placement of plants for proper growth should be in well-lit areas. The sunny position ensures good and fast growth in spring onions. Ensure regular watering for proper growth. 

For greener leaves of spring onions, you can use liquid seaweed, a weak worm juice, or compost tea. 

Due to the shallow root system, spring onions can be easily grown in small pots or containers. 

Avoid planting spring onions near peas or beans. Also, drying out or stress is completely disliked by these flavored perennials. Competition from weeds can lead to weak plants because of a lack of nutrition. Further, keep them full at all times. Hungry plants will become weak and non-delicious. 

Tip-  you do not seed for growing spring onions. You can grow spring onions from bought spring too. Here is how- 

Cut them from around 1 inch above the bulb. Now you can use the above portion of leaves in cooking. The leftover should be placed in a container filled with water. Dip the bulb in water and place it in sunlight or near your window. Do change the water every day. After 2 days you will observe stem growing. You can cut the tops again and leave it growing more. 

How long does it take for spring onion seeds to germinate?

So further you might be wondering, once you sow the seeds; when will the seeds germinate?

It takes around 2 weeks for seeds of spring onions to germinate. Germination slows at lower temperatures like 6-7C. However, if the temperature is raised then germination speeds up. The optimum temperature for germination is 10-35C. Therefore, it is evident that this crop germinates fast in warmer conditions. They can even germinate in as little as 4 days if temperature conditions are favourable. 

spring onion seeds germinating

Artificial practices like the usage of bottom heat can help raise temperatures and speed up the germination process. 

Once they grow up to a height of 8-10 inches you can transplant them into your home garden in case you sowed them in a container.  

When to harvest spring onions?

Spring onions are ready to harvest when they reach a height of 12-20 inches. They mature in around 8-12 weeks. If you wish to harvest strongly flavored spring onions, then let them mature over 8 weeks. Mildly flavoured spring onions can be harvested early. 

Spring onions can be used as a filler crop too. Grow them in between other slower growing vegetables to keep your soil healthy and working. 

Harvesting Spring Onion

Once they are tall, green, and healthy-looking, they are ready to harvest. You can even cut greens with a scissor at least 3 cm above ground level. Then leave bulbs in the soil to grow more. you can water the plant with seaweed for faster regrowth. Snipping of outer leaves encourages more growth in plants. Depending on varieties, some spring onions are white while some develop brown bulbs. 

In colder temperatures, you can grow spring onions in water inside your house to maintain temperatures. 

Storage 

Use flowers on spring onions to obtain seeds and save them for further use. 

After harvesting spring onions, wrap them in plastic. Edible flowers of some varieties can be harvested for use in salads, stir-fries, or for garnishing purposes. 

Health benefits of spring onions

Spring onions are full of health benefits. The presence of various nutrients makes them very healthy. Along with nutrients, the taste of this vegetable is also very good. 

They help in lowering cholesterol. They also have antibacterial and antifungal properties. Spring onions also benefit people by relieving sinus and chest ailments. 

Asthma and bronchitis ailments can also be treated by the consumption of spring onions regularly. Further, spring onions also contain anticoagulants. This helps in the thinning of blood and lowers the risk of a heart attack. 

The presence of high sulfur content in spring onions purifies blood, makes skin clearer, cleanses the liver, and improves immunity. 

Few recipes of spring onions 

As already known spring onions are loaded with deliciousness and their versatile nature makes them readily useful. They can be used to make stir-fries, used in salads, making dips, chutneys, salsa, omelets, and even used as garnishing. 

Spring onions taste so delicious when raw and even when cooked. 

Mature bulbs are strong flavoured and young slender leaves are mildly flavoured and can be enjoyed in various recipes. They are most nutritious when raw. 

You can even put them in rice, noodles, soups, pasta, eggs, or casserole to enhance the flavour and make your dishes even more delicious. 

Pest and diseases

Onion thrips 

Thrips are the main organisms that affect spring onions. They are small sucking insects and are active in warmer months. Dry and warm conditions are favorable for the growth of such insects. 

To avoid problems, keep a check on the center of plants regularly. Keeping them moist will keep most of the problems away. Tiny thrips usually attach themselves to new leaves. They cause the appearance of white, silver, and grey blotches on leaves. 

Downy mildew

This disease results in white to purple furry growth on the surface of older leaves. Leaf tissue becomes pale then yellow and collapses eventually. This disease is spread by wind. It is the main disease that occurs in spring onions and shallot production. 

Alternate fungicides can be used to cure the disease. 

Grey mould

Cool, moist springs result in the spread of this disease. Symptoms in this disease are rotting of the bulb and sunken lesions on the side or base of the bulb. Fungicides can be used to treat this disease. 

White rot (Sclerotium cepivorum)

Yellowing, wilting, and death of leaves are observed in infected plants. Decaying of leaves begins at the base and older leaves are affected at first. Fluffy mycelial growth is observed on the bulb. 

The severity of this disease varies with regions. Regions like SA and VIC are majorly hit by this disease. 

Fungicides are not being used yet to treat this disease. However, soil can be gotten rid of the fungus. Plus, Trichoderma can be used as a biological treatment. 

Further, carrot flies are also harmful to spring onions. You can keep carrot flies away by growing them between carrot plants.

Use horticultural fleece to protect them from birds. 

Conclusion 

Spring onions or shallots are so easy to grow and maintain. They do not require much space or effort of yours. Growing these perennial plants is interesting and fruitful. 

Whole spring onions can be consumed except roots. The white bulb is strongly flavoured and tender in texture while the green part is crispier and has a mild flavour. 

With amazing health benefits and delicious taste, these vegetables are a must-have for your garden.